Edge Posted December 16, 2016 Report Posted December 16, 2016 My first teeny mod - replaced the "Warning" stickers on the sun visors with something fun! Now I get to wait and see which of my friends is the first to notice them.The one on the right is awesome! :top: "Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR. License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129
splat Posted December 17, 2016 Report Posted December 17, 2016 Slick. You make them yourself? If so, how? They are by the company Artistic Reflection (they make grill badges too) and you can find them on amazon and ebay. They have different sizes in case you have the long skinny kind instead of the more square kind. 2011 Spice Orange Cabrio - embracing the chrome!
TGGRRR (Ali) Posted December 17, 2016 Report Posted December 17, 2016 They are by the company Artistic Reflection (they make grill badges too) and you can find them on amazon and ebay. They have different sizes in case you have the long skinny kind instead of the more square kind. I think I got my orange S's from them Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman
splat Posted December 22, 2016 Report Posted December 22, 2016 Happy Holidays! Installed a badge bar and some seasonal badges. Since I would have had to remove and drill the grill to put them on the front, I got a badge bar instead and put it on the back. The little screws that hold the license plate thingy onto the car ended up being a little short once I added the washers and bar so I had to dig around and find some similar longer ones in my toolbox. Not OEM screws - but at least the whole thing isn't going to fall off. 2011 Spice Orange Cabrio - embracing the chrome!
TGGRRR (Ali) Posted December 23, 2016 Report Posted December 23, 2016 Great job and festive!!!! Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman
aviaator Posted December 24, 2016 Report Posted December 24, 2016 Installed the OEM "Sport" suspension and a 19mm RSB on my base Clubby. Not ready for autocrossing but she sure handles better.
splat Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 My CR-V was getting jealous of all the attention that my MINI was getting so I had to give him some new plates! He is benefiting from the MINI being around since ALL the cleaning products get tested on him first before I use them on the MINI - so he's cleaner than he has been in years. 2011 Spice Orange Cabrio - embracing the chrome!
TGGRRR (Ali) Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 My CR-V was getting jealous of all the attention that my MINI was getting so I had to give him some new plates! He is benefiting from the MINI being around since ALL the cleaning products get tested on him first before I use them on the MINI - so he's cleaner than he has been in years. Love it!!! Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman
Gearhead60 Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 Ordered this: http://www.dinancars.com/product/d440-0012-dinantronics-sport-performance-tuner-for-mini-b36-b38-b46-b48-engines/?series=cooper&mid=1263/ for 2017 F54 ALL4 Clubman S "Beer Wagon" Digital Blue Sport Package w/ LEDs & cornering lights, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package, Stealth Mode, 6-Spd. Manual Trans, Vegan Leather, Cravenspeed Short Shifter w/ Yoda Shift Cap, NM Engineering 25mm GT rear Swaybar & End Links, Chassis Bones Braces, Mirrors that fold w/ the push of a button, Spare Tire.
1975_mini Posted February 15, 2017 Report Posted February 15, 2017 So I ordered brandy a 23mm adjustable rear sway bar a while back and did not get a chance to install it. So since I am home alone I decided today was the day. I decided to do it in the driveway since the weather was nice and I have all the tools or so I thought. I pull out my floor jack and jack stands to get the rear end in the air. This is when I found out the countryman does not have to rubber jack point but instead the crappy reinforced pinch weld points. Guest I need to order an adapter block for my jack. No sweet I can find some solid point to get it in the air and on stands. I a climb under to decide where to use, this is an advantage of the countryman, not sliding under a clubman or hardtop when it's on the ground. So I glance at the subframe bolts I will need to undo it get the sway bar in and out. What is staring back at me but an echo head bolt, when the hell did that change. Damn you MINI. For those of you unfamiliar with an echo bolt think torx but reversed ( I included a picture). I definitely don't own those sockets, but they are on my birthday/Xmas list now. Luckily I live on base so it is off the the the auto hobby shop to see how the other half live. There were lifts, air tools, and heated garage space!! I now understand how first class must feel. So I rent a lift, with snapon toolbox full of goodies. 6 hours an hour. The mechanic there to help, told me several time why don't you raise to lift higher as they found me sitting on the floor with my head in a wheel well. I told them it was how I am used to working, they gave up on me at that point, and I tooled away. Air tools definitely make life easier. I had to do the sway bar links by hand, and I have no idea why the Allen key you need to hold the bolt is standard when everything else is metric. The air racket made short work of the shock. Had to do the sway bar links by hand do to clearance, the front even had to be done by box wrench that took some time. Then it was time for the subframe bolts They took some planning to get an angle on them, but not to bad. As brandy has an all4 there is a bit more to work around back there. Also people people said you didn't need to support the subframe as the diff has rear mounts. I placed a trans jack under and it allowed better control as I work the sway bar out. I was able to remove the old 17mm bar with little effort. I include a picture of the old and new I replaced the OEM with a 23 mm with 3 adjustments. Only a little pleading and one POS and the new one was in. I set it to the middle setting for now. Everything went back together in reverse with easy. The only causality was my thumb nail, I was not paying attention and pinched my thumb retween the control arm and the air rachet. I included a picture of the result going to be loading the nail in about a week. The project took about 2:30 hours, and that was with me taking my time. I texted brandy to tell her it was done, and told her about the thumb incident. She ask how did it feel. I said it hurt but not bad. She responded with, I meant how does the new sway bar feel in the MINI. We see where her priorities lie. 1975 Mini 1000, 998cc A+ w/ K&N air filter, 10" Mamba wheels
MELO-R56 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Posted February 16, 2017 Just curious 1975_mini, is the 23 mm sway bar you used from Madness Motorworks? I saw the red sway bar and assumed as much. I also just replaced my stock rear sway bar with the Madness Motorworks 23 mm RSB and set it to the middle. My initial impression is that the whole rear end feels so much tighter and stiff. Still feeling out how the car handles in the twisties, but so far everything is WOW! Next on my list is the JCW front strut brace for the whole package, can't wait! :rock: 2009 Mellow Yellow MCS, JCW Aero Package, JCW intake, JCW Steering Wheel, NM Engineering strut tower brace, Nvidia Q300 Cat Back Exhaust, ST XTA Coilovers, Madness Motorworks 22mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar, GP2 Rear Diffuser, Powerflex front control arm bushings, R112 Black Challenge Wheels, Bridgestone Potenza Tires
GreenCactus Posted February 16, 2017 Report Posted February 16, 2017 Next on my list is the JCW front strut brace for the whole package, can't wait! :rock: I have the JCW front strut brace and to be perfectly honest, it was not worth the money. It looks nice and I don't regret getting it, but I did not notice any difference at all after I put it on.
MELO-R56 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Posted February 16, 2017 Oh yeah GreenCactus, I know it won't be a dramatic increase in handling, but it sure does go a long way in BLINGING out the engine bay, plus it easily adds like 20 HP just because it has the JCW logo on it! 2009 Mellow Yellow MCS, JCW Aero Package, JCW intake, JCW Steering Wheel, NM Engineering strut tower brace, Nvidia Q300 Cat Back Exhaust, ST XTA Coilovers, Madness Motorworks 22mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar, GP2 Rear Diffuser, Powerflex front control arm bushings, R112 Black Challenge Wheels, Bridgestone Potenza Tires
GreenCactus Posted February 16, 2017 Report Posted February 16, 2017 Oh yeah GreenCactus, I know it won't be a dramatic increase in handling, but it sure does go a long way in BLINGING out the engine bay, plus it easily adds like 20 HP just because it has the JCW logo on it! That's exactly why I did it!
1975_mini Posted February 16, 2017 Report Posted February 16, 2017 I went with VIP for the sway bar. Just curious 1975_mini, is the 23 mm sway bar you used from Madness Motorworks? I saw the red sway bar and assumed as much. I also just replaced my stock rear sway bar with the Madness Motorworks 23 mm RSB and set it to the middle. My initial impression is that the whole rear end feels so much tighter and stiff. Still feeling out how the car handles in the twisties, but so far everything is WOW! Next on my list is the JCW front strut brace for the whole package, can't wait! :rock: 1975 Mini 1000, 998cc A+ w/ K&N air filter, 10" Mamba wheels
H8PAVMT Posted February 23, 2017 Report Posted February 23, 2017 After the thousands spent getting the cylinder head rebuilt, my budget was in search of a free mod - I did the R56 channel swap to improve the sound quality of the stock radio/speakers. Amazing improvement and only cost 15 minutes of my time! 2007 Cooper S - Chili Red - White Roof
Gearhead60 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Posted February 27, 2017 OK, so it was Saturday that I did something to my MINI.....rear bumper cover... 2017 F54 ALL4 Clubman S "Beer Wagon" Digital Blue Sport Package w/ LEDs & cornering lights, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package, Stealth Mode, 6-Spd. Manual Trans, Vegan Leather, Cravenspeed Short Shifter w/ Yoda Shift Cap, NM Engineering 25mm GT rear Swaybar & End Links, Chassis Bones Braces, Mirrors that fold w/ the push of a button, Spare Tire.
ucf3 Posted February 28, 2017 Report Posted February 28, 2017 alright it's been a couple of weeks since i installed these but just added a pair of driving lights. Definitely needed them since i don't have projector headlamps. :rock: 2k10 Mini Cooper S (R56) 6sp, Coilover suspension, K&N Intake, Alta hotside, Stoptech Rotors, 17" white wheels w/ Conti DW, and resonator delete, S42 turbo upgrade, upgraded intercooler, tuned 250whp. 2k9 Lexus RX350 AWD, Classic Metallic, Sirius radio. 2k8 Audi R8, 4.2, Silver Metallic, StaSis Exhaust, MPSS tires, Sirius radio (Totalled) 2k14 Audi R8 5.2 Suzuka Grey, Larini Exhaust, MPSS tires, Sirius, K&N Filters w/ silicoln sleeve and tuned.
HasAnMTBProblem Posted February 28, 2017 Report Posted February 28, 2017 Thanks to LtDan and his DIY day, I got my KW V3 coilovers and hotchkis rear lower control arms in. Sitting right at 2" lower. Pic is bad, but I don't really care until I get my new wheels on. Drives so much better now. Weird thing is that the drive train feels tighter, now... less laggy. Not sure why. Maybe the taller suspension introduces some squat induced slack feeling? "Big Pig" - KW V3 Coilovers - Hotchkis rear control arms - Milltek cat back exhaust with black MBRP tips - Flat black vinyl wrapped head/tail light rights - ECS Black Line Tail Lights - Outmotoring Smoked Side Markers - Outmotoring Smoked Scuttle Turn Signals - Joey Mod Head lights - Outmotoring LED Driving Lights - Enkei T6S 18x8 et42 Wheels - Continental ExtremeContact Sport 235/40R18
Gearhead60 Posted March 1, 2017 Report Posted March 1, 2017 Thanks to LtDan and his DIY day, I got my KW V3 coilovers and hotchkis rear lower control arms in. Sitting right at 2" lower. Pic is bad, but I don't really care until I get my new wheels on. Drives so much better now. Weird thing is that the drive train feels tighter, now... less laggy. Not sure why. Maybe the taller suspension introduces some squat induced slack feeling? Looks nice! 2017 F54 ALL4 Clubman S "Beer Wagon" Digital Blue Sport Package w/ LEDs & cornering lights, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package, Stealth Mode, 6-Spd. Manual Trans, Vegan Leather, Cravenspeed Short Shifter w/ Yoda Shift Cap, NM Engineering 25mm GT rear Swaybar & End Links, Chassis Bones Braces, Mirrors that fold w/ the push of a button, Spare Tire.
1975_mini Posted March 1, 2017 Report Posted March 1, 2017 The stance looks great, I was definitely interested in see how it would look after you mentioned it at the M&G. One question did you change outthe sway bar links to shorter or adjustment one? If not does the sway bar seem to be preloaded? Thanks for sharing and look forward to what else you do. Thanks to LtDan and his DIY day, I got my KW V3 coilovers and hotchkis rear lower control arms in. Sitting right at 2" lower. Pic is bad, but I don't really care until I get my new wheels on. Drives so much better now. Weird thing is that the drive train feels tighter, now... less laggy. Not sure why. Maybe the taller suspension introduces some squat induced slack feeling? 1975 Mini 1000, 998cc A+ w/ K&N air filter, 10" Mamba wheels
HasAnMTBProblem Posted March 1, 2017 Report Posted March 1, 2017 The stance looks great, I was definitely interested in see how it would look after you mentioned it at the M&G. One question did you change outthe sway bar links to shorter or adjustment one? If not does the sway bar seem to be preloaded?Thanks for sharing and look forward to what else you do. I didn't but I did remember to check. Clearance on the rears was fine. The fronts connect directly to a tab on the shock body, and KW puts the mount higher to compensate. As for preload... (Warning, technical mumbo jumbo) As I understand it, I don't think sway bar preload is what people think it is. ...and someone can correct me if I've misunderstood. So, preload (on anything) is the practice of putting tension, or "weight" into a spring while at rest. This can be positive or negative "weight." In the case of a sway bar, the "spring" is the torsional difference between one end and the other due to twisting. This happens when the ends twist in opposite directions, such as when one wheel goes over a bump, but not the other one. With that logic, the only way I see to get preload on a sway bar is by creating a twist in the sway bar when sitting on level ground. You can achieve that with end links of different lengths. I'm not really sure why one would want to do this, maybe to compensate for driver weight if you don't have adjustable strut height? Anyway, if both sides are adjusted to the same height, I don't see how you can have preload. With that out of the way, what I suspect most people are talking about is the stiffer feeling of the ride when the sway bar is orientated at an angle other than perpendicular to the path of the axle. this would happen when the ride height is raised or lowered. For a sway bar to perform most efficiently, it should be orientated perpendicularly to the travel of the axle/control arm. --I feel I should note that this can be achieved through crafty design that doesn't appear to be perpendicular. It has to do with force vectoring, which I won't attempt to explain because I failed that class in college.-- In this case, some of the force of a bump is transmitted longitudinally into the arm of the sway bar because the angle of the vector of the force is now something other that 90 degrees. This isn't really ideal because now a portion of the force of a bump is being transmitted through the sway bar and into the chassis. At minimum, this could be noticed as a bumpier, harsher, or stiffer feeling. If a bit more off-90, I could see this upsetting the stability dynamics, say, when cornering and hitting a bump. Depending on the severity, I could imagine bushings wearing out faster or, if it's on the really ridiculous side, actually causing damage to the sway bar mount area. These effects would occur whether both wheels encountered the bump at the same time, or if only one side did. Soooooo, that's a really long and technical way of explaining that, no, I haven't noticed any issues with sway bar "preload." "Big Pig" - KW V3 Coilovers - Hotchkis rear control arms - Milltek cat back exhaust with black MBRP tips - Flat black vinyl wrapped head/tail light rights - ECS Black Line Tail Lights - Outmotoring Smoked Side Markers - Outmotoring Smoked Scuttle Turn Signals - Joey Mod Head lights - Outmotoring LED Driving Lights - Enkei T6S 18x8 et42 Wheels - Continental ExtremeContact Sport 235/40R18
1975_mini Posted March 1, 2017 Report Posted March 1, 2017 Thanks for the info, you got what I was going for the change in ride height effecting the orientation of the sway bar. Thanks 1975 Mini 1000, 998cc A+ w/ K&N air filter, 10" Mamba wheels
Gearhead60 Posted March 27, 2017 Report Posted March 27, 2017 Changed the coding on "Lilli" so she would fold mirrors when locking car by key or button on door. Also, if I hold down unlock button, all windows and sunroof open. They close if I hold down button too! 2017 F54 ALL4 Clubman S "Beer Wagon" Digital Blue Sport Package w/ LEDs & cornering lights, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package, Stealth Mode, 6-Spd. Manual Trans, Vegan Leather, Cravenspeed Short Shifter w/ Yoda Shift Cap, NM Engineering 25mm GT rear Swaybar & End Links, Chassis Bones Braces, Mirrors that fold w/ the push of a button, Spare Tire.
DIREK Posted March 30, 2017 Report Posted March 30, 2017 Changed the coding on "Lilli" so she would fold mirrors when locking car by key or button on door. Also, if I hold down unlock button, all windows and sunroof open. They close if I hold down button too! Hey Mark! I'm interested in getting that exact same thing done on my F56. Care to share any digits or lead me to where/how to get this done? TIA! :rock: 2015 Volcanic Orange Mini Cooper S F56 6MT, Premium, Cold Weather, Media, LED, HUD NM Engineering Power module Borla Touring axle back exhaust JCW style bonnet stripes
