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HasAnMTBProblem

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Everything posted by HasAnMTBProblem

  1. Hey, everyone. My 2011 R60 is leaking water inside either one of the left doors, or inside the body frame on the left side. Had anyone seen this/heard of this before? Can't really figure out how it would get in there, or at least why it isn't draining out.
  2. Hey, there. 2012 Mini Countryman S, 6-speed. Wondering if anyone has a clue about what could be causing this. It only happens under full throttle/very near full throttle. It only happens between 3000 and 5000 RPMs. It feels like a miss in one of the cylinders. It happens 1 - 3 times very quickly in each gear, then stops (or I upshift). I get a pop and burble from the exhaust at the same time, similar to when I downshift. No smoke, no warning lights. Though I haven't yet hooked it up to a scanner to see if there are any codes that just weren't severe enough to trip a light. Things off the top of my head I could see it being, no particular order: 1. Dirty fuel filter that chokes under high demand 2. Spark plug that is fouled and doesn't burn correctly under high load 3. Fuel injector started to get clogged that doesn't spray the full amount it should under high load. 4. Waste gate is activating early, and dumping boost. 5. Some issue with a cylinder, maybe compression or valve issue. One guy I read about had a very similar scenario but on an '02 Cooper. Ended up a piston head had a chip or hole or something. Had to have all the piston heads replace, and the top end rebuilt.
  3. Yeah, I was wondering the same about that last bit. But, without having parts to play with, not sure how I'd go about figuring that out. I doubt part descriptions would go into enough detail (length of rack, bolt placement, pinion and rack teeth count, rack size, etc.) to work it out on paper.
  4. Lol, yeah, I guess a meant something off the shelf, or a frankenrack someone might have already experimented with.
  5. Sport mode changes the feel, for sure, but it's not going to change the ratio. It basically reduces the power assist, making it feel sportier. I love that, but it's not what I'm talking about.
  6. First, let me state that I understand what I'm about to talk about is nit picky. I also understand that any modifications regarding this is probably more money and work than what it's worth. ...but I like thinking about things like this, and am curious what options there are out there, if any. So, I've had my 2012 R60S for about 6 months, now. One thing that I noticed is that two-handed steering around sharper corners is right at the limit of hand grip without having to move one of my hands. If I had things perfect for my preference, I wouldn't mind having a slightly tighter steering ratio. I believe the R60 has a 14.1:1 steering ratio, and I'm interested to see if there is a solution that knocks a quarter turn, or so, off the lock to lock rotation. Initial searches for close ratio steering racks are coming up empty. Any thoughts?
  7. Finally got everything together. Hadn't posted pics before because everything was kind of being done at the same time. Just washed/waxed her up and took a couple pics. KW V3 Coilovers Hotchkis rear control arms Milltek cat back exhaust with black MBRP tips Flat black vinyl wrapped head/tail light rights ECS Black Line Tail Lights Outmotoring Smoked Side Markers Outmotoring Smoked Scuttle Turn Signals Joey Mod Head lights Outmotoring LED Driving Lights Enkei T6S 18x8 et42 Wheels Continental ExtremeContact Sport 235/40R18 The hood isn't really debadged. The emblem is off right now, but I used a bit of photoshop to cover up the holes for the sake of the picture. lol. I'm going to order a new hood emblem soon.
  8. Don't even hesitate to go to them. They are the best shop I've ever dealt with. Galen is super accommodating, gives you the straight sh*t, gives more all the information you could ask for and then some, does the best quality work I've ever seen, and has better prices than most euro shops! Oh, they also have a few loaners they'll let you borrow while your car is in the shop. Though they are usually already taken. Don't think about it. Just go there. I have a personal rule to not put shop/vendor/manufacturer decals on my car. For GTPeace, I made an exception and asked them for a couple of window decals. No qualms about throwing them a bit of free advertising. That's how impressed I was with them.
  9. Caps game, tomorrow. Sooooo, I'm out.
  10. I did a test using red scotch bright on an emblem. It looks good, but the brush marks are so fine that it kind of loses the effect, looks more like a flat clear over chrome.
  11. Hello. I want to experiment with a couple of ideas I have for doing the joey mod on my R60. Does anyone have a busted headlight that would want to donate to my efforts, or sell really cheap? Prefer R60 HID style for accuracy, but will accept non-HID or non-R60 buckets if that's all there is.
  12. Plastidip seems like a good way to get melted goo all over the inside of your headlights.
  13. Yeah, thought about both of those things, too. I was one click away from buying a spray can of Light White, primer, clear, but I just don't think it would look good. As for gunmetal, I'm worried it wouldn't look right with the all black everything I'm doing. I'm probably overthinking it, though. One thing I thought of last night is scuff it up like brushed metal, mask it off, and spray a gloss clear over it before I do the flat black for the rest of it. That way I still get a contrast but it doesn't look like chrome.
  14. I have a white/white roof R60 with blacked out tail lights, flat black head/tail light rings, will be blacking the belt line, door handles and maybe the emblems too. Going to do the Joey Mod, but can't decide if I should do all black buckets, or leave the ring around the projector chrome. I want to dechrome the entire car, but am thinking all black headlight buckets will cause them to disappear complete due to the white/black contrast. Thoughts? Example pics?
  15. Yeah, great way to spend the morning!
  16. Curious who has had any paint work done on their Minis, especially uncommon colors. Not looking for pearl or metallics or anything. But the color I want is not common, at all. So, who do you use/have you used, and what was your experience like?
  17. I'm curious about the LED DRL/Fog conversions out there. The thing I don't understand is, if I already have non-LED parking/fog lights, why do I need all that wiring and control module? Why can't the LED housing be swap in place of the stock ones, using the stock wiring? I mean, LED's use less power. So, having a ballast doesn't seem necessary, and since the wiring is already in place to control when each type of light is turned on, I don't understand the need for a separate control module. Examples of the kits I'm talking about are.... http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-halo...light-kit.html http://www.outmotoring.com/led-front...light-kit.html
  18. WTF? Site says they are $.75, but can't find them for less than like $1.75.
  19. Anyone happen to have a spare headlight trim clip I can acqire? I broke one mine and now it's rattling.
  20. I didn't but I did remember to check. Clearance on the rears was fine. The fronts connect directly to a tab on the shock body, and KW puts the mount higher to compensate. As for preload... (Warning, technical mumbo jumbo) As I understand it, I don't think sway bar preload is what people think it is. ...and someone can correct me if I've misunderstood. So, preload (on anything) is the practice of putting tension, or "weight" into a spring while at rest. This can be positive or negative "weight." In the case of a sway bar, the "spring" is the torsional difference between one end and the other due to twisting. This happens when the ends twist in opposite directions, such as when one wheel goes over a bump, but not the other one. With that logic, the only way I see to get preload on a sway bar is by creating a twist in the sway bar when sitting on level ground. You can achieve that with end links of different lengths. I'm not really sure why one would want to do this, maybe to compensate for driver weight if you don't have adjustable strut height? Anyway, if both sides are adjusted to the same height, I don't see how you can have preload. With that out of the way, what I suspect most people are talking about is the stiffer feeling of the ride when the sway bar is orientated at an angle other than perpendicular to the path of the axle. this would happen when the ride height is raised or lowered. For a sway bar to perform most efficiently, it should be orientated perpendicularly to the travel of the axle/control arm. --I feel I should note that this can be achieved through crafty design that doesn't appear to be perpendicular. It has to do with force vectoring, which I won't attempt to explain because I failed that class in college.-- In this case, some of the force of a bump is transmitted longitudinally into the arm of the sway bar because the angle of the vector of the force is now something other that 90 degrees. This isn't really ideal because now a portion of the force of a bump is being transmitted through the sway bar and into the chassis. At minimum, this could be noticed as a bumpier, harsher, or stiffer feeling. If a bit more off-90, I could see this upsetting the stability dynamics, say, when cornering and hitting a bump. Depending on the severity, I could imagine bushings wearing out faster or, if it's on the really ridiculous side, actually causing damage to the sway bar mount area. These effects would occur whether both wheels encountered the bump at the same time, or if only one side did. Soooooo, that's a really long and technical way of explaining that, no, I haven't noticed any issues with sway bar "preload."
  21. Thanks to LtDan and his DIY day, I got my KW V3 coilovers and hotchkis rear lower control arms in. Sitting right at 2" lower. Pic is bad, but I don't really care until I get my new wheels on. Drives so much better now. Weird thing is that the drive train feels tighter, now... less laggy. Not sure why. Maybe the taller suspension introduces some squat induced slack feeling?
  22. Thanks goes to you! An all weekend job became a several hour job just by virtue of having a lift. Coilovers and control arms are in, even if I didn't get to install my camber plates due to them sending me the wrong ones.
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