HasAnMTBProblem

Hi, sorry if this has been done before, but my searches couldn't find much info about performance gains per exhaust manufacturer/configuration. I can find tons of info/videos for the sound each one makes, but next to nothing about actual HP numbers. So, if it's not too much trouble, could people chime in with documented or measured HP increases for any exhaust system they are aware of? Keep the list to cat-back, DP, or turbo-back systems (not just mufflers) that do not require ECU program. Second cat delete allowed. I've started a list of system I'm aware of. Please add any not already listed. I'll start. The only numbers I've seen are... NM Cat-Back = 12-15HP (crank or WHP not specified) Source: NM Engineering Milltek SSXM402 = 10-12% HP increase (crank or WHP not specified) Source: M7 Speed Borla = Magnaflow = VIP DP Series = VIP AB Series = Megan = Scorpion = Quicksilver =

Does that coding get overwritten if the ECU is flashed? If so, can the coding be stored somewhere and re-uploaded by me?

So, now that the Continental ExtremeContact Sports are available on TireRack, would you get those or Michelin Pilot Super Sports? Anyone happen to have any experience the Conti's? Super Sports are proven, but ExtremeContact Sports are an evolutionary step up from the DW's, which are also proven. I can't find any comparison articles between these two.

Curious what the stock boost is on R60 Countryman S. Can't find that anywhere. Anyone know?

Meh, I've never seen auto-AC/climate control that worked worth a damn, anyway. So, to have this and not auto headlights is stupid to me. I'm looking into doing a DIY auto headlight sensor install. That little bump would be the perfect place to put it.

Yeah, I was meaning the kind that come on when it gets dark. Mine do also turn off automatically when I turn of the car.

Hi, all. Can anyone tell me what this little circle thing does? It's the typical spot for a car's light sensor for automatic lights, but might doesn't have those. In fact, near as I can tell, the R60 doesn't have auto lights as an option. It pulls out easily with a finger nail and has a three pin connector attached to it.

Anyone running an aftermarket oil cooler on their R60, or other models? If so, which brand/model? What do you think of it? The stock oil coolers don't look like anything that would actually be useful. Has anyone who does occasional track days or autox had any oil temp issues? I'm asking because I had a catastrophic experience with an BMW I had once, and don't want to repeat that event.

Was just thinking that my list may not be appropriate for this Tech Day. I'll drop out.

Hiya! Anyone seen where the oil change counter always says 15000 miles. Mine is not counting down? 2012 R60 Countryman. Also, is there a way to change the interval count down to 6000 miles?

Sooooo, unfortunately Enkei has ended the black T6S wheels. Lame! But! I got a good deal on a set of silvers and am going to have them powder coated (or possibly painted, not sure yet) bronze, like the Volk TE37's. - Sooooo sexy, those wheels!- I may chicken out and do gunmetal, but I'm not doing black. There is way too much black going on in the wheel well area on the R60.

Thanks, man. I spoke to Enkei and a couple of Mini-specific vendors and I think I'm just going to go with 18x8 et42. Enkei says that their 5x120 wheels (or at least the two I asked about) have the same profile up to 9" wide. They just machine more off the mounting surface to get from et32 to et42. The profile gets deeper at 9.5". I really wanted them as concave as possible. Since they told me the above, I'm trying to find the T6S in black, 18x8 et42. Easy to find silver, not so easy to find black.

FYI, alternator and battery replaced under warranty. No issues with the blower since then.

I could probably do the conversion from people running 19" wheels, too. But there is still the problem of people not talking about lowered suspension or driving style and any rubbing issues they have. ...or they're still at stock height. Yeah, I'm looking at more like 40mm. I'll see if I can do the math on everything you just said. BTW, where did you get those Streetrallyes? The black ones are high on my list, but the only place I found them was on eBay from Germany, which is less than trust enducing.

I know someone is going to say "use the search button" because they think this is the same question being asked over and over, but I promise I have done a ton of research and cannot find an answer to my specific question, despite all of the information that ALMOST hits home. My question is: What offset are people running for 18x8 and 235/40R18 on 1.5" drop, such as with KW coilovers. I'm trying to figure out how much, if any rubbing there is. I'm not talking about just driving along. I want to know what people are running to avoid rubbing over big bumps, dips, and hard cornering, too. At the moment, I'm thinking I'm limited to a minimum of et40, but I'd love to be able to get down to et35 or et32. Without being able to find reliable info, though, I can't be sure what is possible. Everything I can find is either about 19" wheels, or has no suspension drop noted. Thanks for the help!

So, after having my alternator and batter replaced (unrelated) things are better, though not completely absent. About half the time I feel it but it's much shorter now. Almost unnoticeable. So, I figure since I have extended warranty through USAA that I'll just let it go for now. Plus, Carmax give 6 months warranty on the diagnosis. So, thinking I should be good to go.

I was kind of thinking something like getting a rotor to match the caliper and fabricating (or having it fabricated) a caliber bracket adapter. I know they do this sort of thing on classic cars, and such. Wondering how feasible it is on an R60.

I've seen the question raised once or twice, but on older posts/threads and no follow up. I was wondering if anyone has or has tried to mount BMW brakes on the R60. I was thinking that maybe the BMW 135i or maybe even the 335i might have a chance at it. I'm wondering because I think a larger set of brakes might be good to have, but wouldn't justify spending $3000+ on a big brake kit. If there is a BMW setup that would work, then that might open the door to some M series junk yard finds. Still might be an outside shot but hey, doesn't hurt to ask.

The shop says the battery and alternator, both need to be replaced. I'm like, whatevs. That's what the 30 day warranty is for. I mean, I'll be without my car for several days (no alternator in stock) but hey, what are you going to do?

Yeah, I've never felt anything like it either. One possibility I thought of is that it's the starter gear not disengaging correctly, and getting short grind on exit. (I feel like there's a joke in there, somewhere.) The vibration is about the right frequency and intensity (again, jokes?) to be that, but I've never felt a grinding starter in the brake pedal like that on other cars.

Having the shop check it out, but wondering if anyone else has experienced a very brief but acute vibration in the brake pedal at startup, especially on cold startup. It's a 2012 R60. It feels exactly like when you hit ABS on a hard brake. Obviously, it could be something else that is just manifesting as that vibration.

Hmm, sumbitch.

Shush, Brian. Ima do it mah way!

Yeah, that's why I'm going to drive it for a week a two and then take a voltage reading again; see if the battery is holding a charge. ...or if the alternator is putting out the needed amps.

Update on headlight issue: Apparently what we call daytime running lights is not the same thing as what Mini calls daytime running lamps. Once I turned this off, I was able to turn off my headlights, but they go all the way off. No headlights AND no DRLs. Which brings up something interesting. This car has a weird configuration on it. Customer opted for the cold weather package and sat-nav w/ Harmon Kardon stereo, but didn't get auto-dimming mirrors, garage door opener, auto-on headlights, or daytime running lights (the real kind). Not sure I understand that logic.