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Everything posted by Gearhead60
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Anyone with B46/48 done the Dinan flash on their ECU? Specs look very nice, see them here. I'm thinking of doing it after Lilli gets her rear fixed.... Goes in body shop on Monday. Took forever for a rear bumper cover replacement! Damn supply chain issues!
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Welcome....you're not getting my age.....LOL.
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I use the Carly phone app with a Wi-Fi OBDII adapter. It works well for coding, but is somewhat limited. As far as diagnostic capabilities, it allows you to read codes, but doesn't give you much in the way of interpretation. I bought it mainly to be able to code on my Gen 3.
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F60 Countryman S: Thinking about a JB4 or Dinan Elite
Gearhead60 replied to Mand00's topic in Maintenance & Modifications
I was very impressed with their professionalism and knowledge. Especially Galen. This was the first time I've used GT Peace. I usually do all my own maintenance and repairs. Been working on cars for 40+ years. This was the first time it was beyond my capabilities. Since car is out of warranty I wasn't going back to the dealer. I had talked to Galen when I first bought the car and at that time there wasn't the ability to remap the Gen 3. I will definitely have them do a remap on my car in the future. BTW, I used PT Tuning, another DCMM vendor and was not happy or impressed with their level of service. I won't go back to them. Good luck! -
F60 Countryman S: Thinking about a JB4 or Dinan Elite
Gearhead60 replied to Mand00's topic in Maintenance & Modifications
Reconsider using a piggyback system like the Dinan or JB4. I just got Lilli back from GT Peace for serious driveability issues due to the Dinan Dinantronix I had on the car for 3 years. It failed. The Dinan Elite is around $700 last time I looked at it. GT Peace is now doing remapping ($700-$1000 depending on model) on Gen 3 cars that typically works much better than a piggyback system. Call Galen and discuss your car with him and what it will do. I likely will have the remap done eventually, but after remodeling a kitchen, I'm a little tapped out right now.... -
Common issue with the F54 Clubmans. I found it happened when my key fob was in my pocket. The right movement pressed the unlock button. Key now is always in the console when I'm driving......
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I'm planning on being there.....
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It's on my calendar to go....
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Thanks to @CarlB and Faith! As always a great set of hosts! Pam and Mark
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We'll be bringing Ham and Cheese Sliders.....
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Oh Shift!!! Watson is going Manual.
Gearhead60 replied to 1975_mini's topic in Maintenance & Modifications
Nice write up Corey. Any plans to modify the mounts to make removal easier the next time?- 8 replies
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- classic mini
- manual conversion
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(and 2 more)
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I plan on bringing a guest!
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I might try to stop in after the Manassas Christmas parade. Got priorities.......
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I could probably make it to the Sine's in Richmond before I could make it to this one.....LOL.
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I'll have +1 also.......
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Sorry, but too damn hard to get there from Manassas.....
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I've had the Continental DWSs, the Pirelli P7s, and now Michelin Premiers on my wife's Mazda 5. The Contis did not wear long enough in my opinion. The Pirellis actually got to 35,000 before I replaced them for losing wet traction. They were probably still good for 10,000 miles and sold them for $50 on FB market place! We're now on the Premiers and they are working really well. On my Clubman, I have the Pirelli P7 runflats. Dealer had to replace 2 under the Road Hazard warranty. I don't expect to get more than 25,000 miles on them. Traction has been good in all conditions. I've not had to run them in any serious accumulation of snow, but expect the all wheel drive to help with that. When looking forward, I will look at non runflat options, likely looking at what the current Pirelli or Michelin options might be. I worked for Goodyear for many years, but haven't been impressed with their offerings lately. Just remember the old adage, "You get what you pay for". This holds very true in regard to tires. I recently bought tires for my son's car and put the VREDESTEIN QUATRAC 5 on his Mazda 3, https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=20110&width=205/&ratio=45&diameter=17&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17. So far they seem to be a reasonable tire for the price and are holding up well. Vredestein has been around as long as I can remember and my dad put them on his BMW more than 30 years ago, replacing the self destructing Continentals. They are well regarded in Europe. Where to buy? Try Tirerack or Discount Tire. Tirerack has a network of installers that you can have them sent to once you decide. Not sure about Discount Tire. I've bought countless tires from Tirerack and have never has an issue.
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Nothing but blank stares out here in Manassas......
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What fluids do you maintain for yourself?
Gearhead60 replied to wyretrip's topic in Maintenance & Modifications
I do the oil changes between the warranty ones. Mini says every 10,000....I say F that. I change it every 5,000. I have a shop with a lift at work and I can do it relatively easily. Add in I'm 45-60 minutes from any Mini dealer so the aggravation of taking it there outweighs doing it myself. As far as other fluids I only have 12,000 miles on the car. I haven't even added windshield washer fluid yet, although I just ordered BMW concentrate from Amazon. Damn warning chime, I must finally be low. I haven't figure out how the change the headlight fluid yet, but am open to assistance.... -
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Apples to Oranges in my opinion. Read this article, especially down at the bottowm where they cover the F series cars.... http://www.motoringfile.com/2018/04/20/need-cold-air-intake-system-mini/ If you are looking for relatively inexpensive performance gains, buy a Dinan Dinantronix tuner ($300 new, or less used) or the NM Module. I have the Dinantronix and it is a noticable gain in power and performance that is worth the money. I have the earlier model which increases HP by about 30hp, but they now have what they call the Elite model which is a lot more money with substantial more HP.
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Looking at the picture, it would seem that the area where the cone filter sits is sealed by the hood. Assuming this is correct, the feed of air is still coming from the air snorkel, that directly fed the old air box, positioned in front of it. So, it follows that the amount of air the CAI can pull in is no more than when the air box was installed. The only way you will see a chance of increasing performance is by increasing the volume of fresh air to take advantage of the bigger surface area of the filter. I now see why no one publishes a measurable increase in performance with a CAI on the F series cars. BTW, CAI is really a bad label for this part as no more cold air comes into this area than before..... On the issue of heat sink, I would think with the factory air box supplying fresh air through the snorkel, it likely provides an insulating effect from the engine heat, thereby cancelling out any effective heating of the air from the engine, especially at idle. Aside from the difference in sound, the visual appeal and the butt dyno feel, I would have to conclude that for performance sake, these intake systems are a waste of money....
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I wasn't willing to spend the money for the CAI so I opted for the AFE filter. Butt dyno says about 1% increase in power and sound quality.....
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My concern about these open air filters under the hood vs. drawing from the outside is the temperature of the air. We all know that a cooler, denser charge makes for more power.....