1975_mini

Starts saving you cans now, they are 10 cents a piece in Michigan. So it's about 1600 miles round trip from my house to the Mack. 1600 miles divided by 30 miles to the gallon (ballpark) = 54 gallons of gas, yes i rounded up. 54 gallons of gas x $3.00 a gallon (again ballpark) = $162.00 $162.00 divided by 10 cents a can = 1620 can The average can crushed reduces a can volume from 23 cubic inches to 10 cubic inches so that's 16200 cubic inches or 9.375 cubic feet A coupe has 9.8 cubic feet of cargo space leaving me like half a cubic foot for clothes. Lets just ignore the fact that it is illegal to return cans from another state in Michigan.

I am stealing Laura’s idea and I will also meet you an the MD side of the ferry

I felt the same about the open cone filters, but my JCW came with the NM engineering designed one when I bought it. So I decided to feel it out before replacing with an OEM air box with a K&N panel filter. In my option there is a noticeable effect from heat soak when sitting at a light, it is a little flat till about 15mph until fresh air has been drawn in. When moving there is no noticeable difference. The F series one at least partially seals the cone off from the engine bay, that in combination with a little heat reflective tape/material may prevent the heat soak I get at lights.

Looks good!! Although it does not add power gains, it does assist in future power gains as it will allow more air to be drawn in increasing flow. Flow is the goal when adding power to a turbo engine. Minimizing air restrictions in always a good first step: high flow intake, larger inter-cooler, high flow exhaust. What is does do now is likely make the turbo wine more pronounced, so it sounds faster.

Please post the updated date when available, we are interested in this

can You post a picture of the scratches in question.

The best price on a respray for just the hood would be a local body shop. If you just have scratches in the hood, how deep are they (to bare metal). Get yours resprayed is the best bet for cost if they are to the metal. If not through the base coat a paint shop may be able the get them out with some compound buffing.

No, I am pretty sure it is lightning blue, but you can remove the bezels, scotch bright and get it resprayed pretty cheap. Unfortunately a lot of horizon blues out there.

There is one at the pick a park up here in Maryland. Hood is $45. I can go pull if you would like. Will post if later

Cool, does the it seem smoother at idle.

An induction service cleans carbon on the fuel side of your engine, this does not touch the back sides of the valves. If you don’t believe the gen1 engine with SC (boosted) has blow by then the walnut bast is not necessary. Induction is a chemical cleaning method, like the detergents already in your fuel just more consintrated. Comparing the two methods are apples and oranges, they clean different parts of the engine one is chemical one is mechanical. Two different things, like comparing the price of a sway bar and coil overs. Both are suspension parts but different thinks

Sorry it is gone. I forgot the update the post.

I haven't seen and r60s in the yards yet, but I will definitely keep an eye out.

I have not for doing it in craig's spot. I coordinated dropping it off Friday evening as I am going out of town for the week. So they can do it whenever they have an opening during the week.

Mine will be sitting in the parking lot, so they can alway use it to fill craigs spot

Roxy got a bit of a new look today. I though the red “look at me” stripes would grow on me. They did not, but wanted to keep the stripes. So the solution matte black to give a ghost stripe look. Before and after pictures below.

No special tool needed unless you are doing a gen1. It is $200 to have the dealer do it, but the belt is only $15 all the cost is labor. It is pretty straight forward project: - undo front passenger inner felt wheel well inner, and fold back to expose the engine. - unload the tensioner, and engage to pin that holds it up. This is the most difficult part, if you try the muscle it with a pry bar. I put the pry bar in place with the handle on the pad of the floor jack. Pump up the jack and let it do all the work, push in pin and release the jack. - pull the friction wheel tab that drives the water pump, to back it off the belt. - slide old belt off pulleys and slide new belt in. -push friction wheel tab back in, push up on tensioner will release spring loaded retention pin and lower on the belt - reinstall wheel linner and you are done takes about and hour, in the garage. I have not check if it is the same on gen3s, but like only minor differences.

Today’s project was to replace the drive belt (aka serpentine belt). Was pretty easy, once I had the light bulb moment and used the floor jack to unload the the tensioner. Had to do this weekend because the dealership failed her on inspection for a worn cracked belt. Which seems odd as I had not heard an squilling on start up or any other time. Once I got the old one out it was pretty clear someone wanted to make $200 for a belt replacement. Jokes on them $15 and and hour of my time.

Going to need a bit more info to take an educated guess: are you able to shift to neutral with the car off and start it? (the car runs with the clutch not engaged) If yes, can you place it in first with the clutch engaged or is the a grinding gear sound or a stumble and stall? If you can shift into first with no grinding or stall, when you try to take off does it feel like it is in a higher gear or not in gear at all?

I can make either day work

@Shadow is coordinating the details with GTPeace, and then will provide guidance on how to proceed.

They likely have a bore scope with the ability to capture still images. If you mention it to them, and say you are just interested in how your looks (not questioning their work) I am sure they may be able to capture some for you. Those bore scopes a fancy and expensive, so I don't have any of those fancy tools.

It is cleaning of the head, focusing on the backside of the valves. Forced induction engines (turbo or Super charger) create blow by, this is when oil vapor in the engine is still moving to fast to settle out of the gases that a routed back to the intake to be combusted (to improve emissions). The oil vapor condenses on the backside of the valves resulting in carbon buildup. This build up begins affecting the seating of the valves, creating rough running and once bad enough does not let the valves seat causing the engine not to start. Many people add a catch can to allow oil vapor more of a chance to settle. This is a good idea to do after the blasting treatment. Just my opinion it is a more of an issue for N14 but if you are running a reduced pulley on your supercharger you are creating more boost and therefore likely creating more blow by.

5x112 is used by VW/Audi if you want to watch for people that pulled those off, also popular cars that people switch rims so likely lots of 3rd party options

They are both 5 lug, but a gen2 countryman/paceman have a 5x120 pattern, the new gen3 are 5x112, and are not a match. a gen3 countryman has the same 5x112 so those would work. I have no idea why they changed from the standard BMW 5x120, wait I do they were tried of gen2 countryman and paceman owner buying BMW wheels from craigslist. No money in that.