1975_mini

Event Title: MINIs Take The Beltway (MTTB) 10 Drive Event Date: 11/11/2018 07:30 AM to 11/11/2018 10:00 AM Event Address: 5990 Duke St, Alexandria, VA, 22304 RSVP on the event here: MINIs Take The Beltway (MTTB) 10 Drive What: MINIs Take The Beltway 10 When: 11 November 2018 Where: Sear's Parking lot at Landmark Mall (across from PMoA) Why: The honor our veterans and support our wounded, ill, and injured Veterans will all donations going to Operation Second Chance. Time: Registration at 7:30 am, rolling out at 9 am Come join us for what has become the Flagship event for DC Metro MINIs. Join us in the Sear's Parking lot where we will stage before taking a MINI parade lap around the outer loop of the beltway. You join us and be amazing at all the waves and smiles you will get as you a part of a line of MINIs as far as you can see. After the parade lap will will be having lunch at Brion's Grille in Fairfax. Lunch: Please register if you plan on attending in the separate event that will be posted shortly. Raffle: We will be selling raffle tickets at registration with winner drawn during lunch. Please keep an eye out for a list of great prizes donated by our generous sponsors. Donate by clicking the Donate now button at: http://dcmetrominis.org/MTTBDonate Suggested donation is $20 per MINI. Donations will benefit: Operation Second Chance – Helping Heroes Move On Shirts are available for preorder. Deadline to order is October 28th. http://dcmm.storenvy.com/ Registration at Passport MINI of Alexandria Passport MINI of Alexandria 5990 Duke St Alexandria, VA 22304-3212 Timeline of Events: 7:30 - 8:30 – Registration (PMoA) Park at Landmark Mall / Sears parking lot – across the street from Passport MINI 8:30 - Group picture 8:45 – Driver’s Meeting (Landmark Mall / Sears parking lot)I 9:00 – Departure 10:30 – Lunch (Brion's Grille – *there is a separate calendar event for lunch RSVPs) Please check back for more information soon!! RSVP on the event here: MINIs Take The Beltway (MTTB) 10 Drive

Sounds great, I will make the call later in the week, but if the weather is bad I will to Roxy. I will be there rain or shine, but Watson is a bit to high maintenance for rain.

A gen2 S has hit the local pick a part. I am going to check it out early this week. If anyone needs anything just drop me a line

Count me in, I plan on bringing Watson down.

Just my personal opinion: I still do oil changes at the dealer, because there is usually a special to have it done for around $60-$70. You are going to spend around $50 for all the oil, filters, etc.. So $20 is not worth the effort, and you get a free list of all the things they think you should fix/maintain. things like brakes, belts, and coolant are worth doing yourself, to save the labors costs and are not difficult to do.

so this is the run badge?

Starts saving you cans now, they are 10 cents a piece in Michigan. So it's about 1600 miles round trip from my house to the Mack. 1600 miles divided by 30 miles to the gallon (ballpark) = 54 gallons of gas, yes i rounded up. 54 gallons of gas x $3.00 a gallon (again ballpark) = $162.00 $162.00 divided by 10 cents a can = 1620 can The average can crushed reduces a can volume from 23 cubic inches to 10 cubic inches so that's 16200 cubic inches or 9.375 cubic feet A coupe has 9.8 cubic feet of cargo space leaving me like half a cubic foot for clothes. Lets just ignore the fact that it is illegal to return cans from another state in Michigan.

I am stealing Laura’s idea and I will also meet you an the MD side of the ferry

I felt the same about the open cone filters, but my JCW came with the NM engineering designed one when I bought it. So I decided to feel it out before replacing with an OEM air box with a K&N panel filter. In my option there is a noticeable effect from heat soak when sitting at a light, it is a little flat till about 15mph until fresh air has been drawn in. When moving there is no noticeable difference. The F series one at least partially seals the cone off from the engine bay, that in combination with a little heat reflective tape/material may prevent the heat soak I get at lights.

Looks good!! Although it does not add power gains, it does assist in future power gains as it will allow more air to be drawn in increasing flow. Flow is the goal when adding power to a turbo engine. Minimizing air restrictions in always a good first step: high flow intake, larger inter-cooler, high flow exhaust. What is does do now is likely make the turbo wine more pronounced, so it sounds faster.

Please post the updated date when available, we are interested in this

can You post a picture of the scratches in question.

The best price on a respray for just the hood would be a local body shop. If you just have scratches in the hood, how deep are they (to bare metal). Get yours resprayed is the best bet for cost if they are to the metal. If not through the base coat a paint shop may be able the get them out with some compound buffing.

No, I am pretty sure it is lightning blue, but you can remove the bezels, scotch bright and get it resprayed pretty cheap. Unfortunately a lot of horizon blues out there.

There is one at the pick a park up here in Maryland. Hood is $45. I can go pull if you would like. Will post if later

Cool, does the it seem smoother at idle.

An induction service cleans carbon on the fuel side of your engine, this does not touch the back sides of the valves. If you don’t believe the gen1 engine with SC (boosted) has blow by then the walnut bast is not necessary. Induction is a chemical cleaning method, like the detergents already in your fuel just more consintrated. Comparing the two methods are apples and oranges, they clean different parts of the engine one is chemical one is mechanical. Two different things, like comparing the price of a sway bar and coil overs. Both are suspension parts but different thinks

Sorry it is gone. I forgot the update the post.

I haven't seen and r60s in the yards yet, but I will definitely keep an eye out.

I have not for doing it in craig's spot. I coordinated dropping it off Friday evening as I am going out of town for the week. So they can do it whenever they have an opening during the week.

Mine will be sitting in the parking lot, so they can alway use it to fill craigs spot

Roxy got a bit of a new look today. I though the red “look at me” stripes would grow on me. They did not, but wanted to keep the stripes. So the solution matte black to give a ghost stripe look. Before and after pictures below.

No special tool needed unless you are doing a gen1. It is $200 to have the dealer do it, but the belt is only $15 all the cost is labor. It is pretty straight forward project: - undo front passenger inner felt wheel well inner, and fold back to expose the engine. - unload the tensioner, and engage to pin that holds it up. This is the most difficult part, if you try the muscle it with a pry bar. I put the pry bar in place with the handle on the pad of the floor jack. Pump up the jack and let it do all the work, push in pin and release the jack. - pull the friction wheel tab that drives the water pump, to back it off the belt. - slide old belt off pulleys and slide new belt in. -push friction wheel tab back in, push up on tensioner will release spring loaded retention pin and lower on the belt - reinstall wheel linner and you are done takes about and hour, in the garage. I have not check if it is the same on gen3s, but like only minor differences.

Today’s project was to replace the drive belt (aka serpentine belt). Was pretty easy, once I had the light bulb moment and used the floor jack to unload the the tensioner. Had to do this weekend because the dealership failed her on inspection for a worn cracked belt. Which seems odd as I had not heard an squilling on start up or any other time. Once I got the old one out it was pretty clear someone wanted to make $200 for a belt replacement. Jokes on them $15 and and hour of my time.