1975_mini

I haven't seen and r60s in the yards yet, but I will definitely keep an eye out.

I have not for doing it in craig's spot. I coordinated dropping it off Friday evening as I am going out of town for the week. So they can do it whenever they have an opening during the week.

Mine will be sitting in the parking lot, so they can alway use it to fill craigs spot

Roxy got a bit of a new look today. I though the red “look at me” stripes would grow on me. They did not, but wanted to keep the stripes. So the solution matte black to give a ghost stripe look. Before and after pictures below.

No special tool needed unless you are doing a gen1. It is $200 to have the dealer do it, but the belt is only $15 all the cost is labor. It is pretty straight forward project: - undo front passenger inner felt wheel well inner, and fold back to expose the engine. - unload the tensioner, and engage to pin that holds it up. This is the most difficult part, if you try the muscle it with a pry bar. I put the pry bar in place with the handle on the pad of the floor jack. Pump up the jack and let it do all the work, push in pin and release the jack. - pull the friction wheel tab that drives the water pump, to back it off the belt. - slide old belt off pulleys and slide new belt in. -push friction wheel tab back in, push up on tensioner will release spring loaded retention pin and lower on the belt - reinstall wheel linner and you are done takes about and hour, in the garage. I have not check if it is the same on gen3s, but like only minor differences.

Today’s project was to replace the drive belt (aka serpentine belt). Was pretty easy, once I had the light bulb moment and used the floor jack to unload the the tensioner. Had to do this weekend because the dealership failed her on inspection for a worn cracked belt. Which seems odd as I had not heard an squilling on start up or any other time. Once I got the old one out it was pretty clear someone wanted to make $200 for a belt replacement. Jokes on them $15 and and hour of my time.

Going to need a bit more info to take an educated guess: are you able to shift to neutral with the car off and start it? (the car runs with the clutch not engaged) If yes, can you place it in first with the clutch engaged or is the a grinding gear sound or a stumble and stall? If you can shift into first with no grinding or stall, when you try to take off does it feel like it is in a higher gear or not in gear at all?

I can make either day work

@Shadow is coordinating the details with GTPeace, and then will provide guidance on how to proceed.

They likely have a bore scope with the ability to capture still images. If you mention it to them, and say you are just interested in how your looks (not questioning their work) I am sure they may be able to capture some for you. Those bore scopes a fancy and expensive, so I don't have any of those fancy tools.

It is cleaning of the head, focusing on the backside of the valves. Forced induction engines (turbo or Super charger) create blow by, this is when oil vapor in the engine is still moving to fast to settle out of the gases that a routed back to the intake to be combusted (to improve emissions). The oil vapor condenses on the backside of the valves resulting in carbon buildup. This build up begins affecting the seating of the valves, creating rough running and once bad enough does not let the valves seat causing the engine not to start. Many people add a catch can to allow oil vapor more of a chance to settle. This is a good idea to do after the blasting treatment. Just my opinion it is a more of an issue for N14 but if you are running a reduced pulley on your supercharger you are creating more boost and therefore likely creating more blow by.

5x112 is used by VW/Audi if you want to watch for people that pulled those off, also popular cars that people switch rims so likely lots of 3rd party options

They are both 5 lug, but a gen2 countryman/paceman have a 5x120 pattern, the new gen3 are 5x112, and are not a match. a gen3 countryman has the same 5x112 so those would work. I have no idea why they changed from the standard BMW 5x120, wait I do they were tried of gen2 countryman and paceman owner buying BMW wheels from craigslist. No money in that.

I need to call and try to lock on a room today, I saw they were releasing non-renewed placed on the 19th

Is it caught in between the two sliders or between the seat base and the floor

We also may want to reach out to C3M and include them. I will be at their quarterly M&G tomorrow if you would like me to bring it up to John just let me know.

I would be interested, not a bad idea to have done. Just passed 40k and my driving style may promote blow-by. I plan on installing a catch can afterwards to help prevent future buildup

I would say it is MINI's ultimate factory performance MINI. Since the are a limited run the engineers do not have to consider parts that can me sourced on a scale capable to supporting mass production. Also the engineers are focus solely on performance, not weigh them again comfort, wear, etc... that a car produced for a large market have to consider. This results in things like the rear seat delete, tying the rear struts together with a bar through what would be storage pace. So from a solely performance stand point it is the ultimate factory MINI, but not as a daily driver. Thats just my opinion, so it along with a dollar will get you a cup of coffee.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2006-mini-gp-5/#comment-2205792

I am willing to rock a Bob Ross outfit for this What the hell, I don't get an invite. Guess my Bob Ross outfit and HAPPY LITTLE A** why go elsewhere. LOL

Was tried of the chrome headlight washer cover. A little vinyl and all better.

Looks awesome, it settled nicely. Did you have to adjust the height at all?

My pleasure, it was fun. You got to give the group some eye candy

There are shots of James with his classic, and already ones of a green MINI on a flatbed

I wasted an hour on killboy this morning scrolling through pics to see who is already there