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GreenCactus

Check Engine Light?

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Cricket's CEL came on this afternoon. It's yellow, nothing is blinking and the car runs fine. I called Sterling and they aren't taking appointments until September, but can do "emergency service" next week. My SA didn't think it was a big deal, probably "just a sensor".

 

Is it ok to drive?

 

Oh, and I did check the gas cap. :itsme:

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Engine off, key out, open gas tank and close again. It will take ~50 miles or more for ECU to reset (if it is the gas cap, it should go away eventually). If not, reset the ecu by disconnect the battery for 30 seconds, reconnect and it should go away. :wink:

 

 

If all this doesn't work, bring them to the dealer.

 

Or the other option, bring the MINI to the shop that can read the code and see what it says. Mach V should be able to check the code and clear the light.

 

Hope this help. :biggrin:

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Take it to an Advance Auto or Pep boys and ask to borrow there code reader (its free). Plug it in under the dash and it should tell you what code you are throwing. That would give a good indication whether you need 'emergency service' or can drive until September.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Thanks everyone!!

 

I was heading out to Mach V this morning and stopped to get some coffee. When I came out and started the car, the light went out.

 

Did you have them check out what the code was? Just curious...

2009 MINI Cooper S Clubman

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Cricket's CEL came on this afternoon. It's yellow, nothing is blinking and the car runs fine. I called Sterling and they aren't taking appointments until September, but can do "emergency service" next week. My SA didn't think it was a big deal, probably "just a sensor".

 

Is it ok to drive?

 

Oh, and I did check the gas cap. :itsme:

WOW!, That's why I can't wait for MoA to open! :top:

2006 MCS, SB/S , "B.A."

  • Performance: DINAN "Stage 5" tune, throttle body, boost kit (fuel pump, pulley), & CAI; JCW exhaust sans resonator, brakes, & GP IC; DDM IC diverter; CSF Racing Aluminum Radiator
  • Suspension: DINAN front strut brace; Alta 22mm rear bar; KW V1 coil-overs; H-Sport adjustable rear control arms; CravenSpeed strut underators
  • Interior: CravenSpeed gauge mounts with Cooper S boost and voltage, & shift well cover
  • Wheels: Enkei PF01 17"
  • Audio: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 HU; MTX Terminator speakers F&B

Alan @ opensource.com

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WOW!, That's why I can't wait for MoA to open! :top:
You mean PMoA. :tongue:

 

MoA = MINI of Annapolis

PMoA = Passport MINI of Alexandria

 

:biggrin:

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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The downpipe is great. I am used to it now, but, I think the turbo spools a little quicker. It is really cool now that it is paired with the cat-back.:biggrin: Loud...:biggrin:

 

Unfortunately, I did end up getting a check engine light, and, Exhaust Depot says two other peeps have reported them. It goes off and on every few days, which is weird. Bad O2 sensor?

 

So, at this point, Jeff, I would tell you to get the Riss Racing DP, and they said if you get a CEL with their catted DP, they will give you their O2 sensor fix for free.

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I also hear (now that I bought one) that the Alta CAI for the R55/R56 is known to throw the Check Engine light. Anyone else had this happen? Is it something to worry about? I haven't received the CAI yet and won't be able to install it until I go home to Atlanta in a couple of weeks. Just thought I'd see if anyone had any experience or opinions.

Stanley - 2006 MINI Cooper S

Carmen - 2008 MINI Clubman S - The LEGO MINI

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