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How to pick a torque wrench

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I want a torque wrench so I can keep an eye on my wheels.

 

I have no idea what is best. I was looking on Amazon. I don't want to buy something super expensive, just something decent. Here's a link to the ones on Amazon

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_6?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=torque%20wrench&sprefix=torque%2Caps%2C287

 

suggestions?

Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman

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For wheels the Harbor freight torque wrench is OK. Better quality torque wrenches list their accuracy. The accuracy is dependent on the condition of the nut, threads, and the friction between the nut and wheel being consistent. It isn't easy to keep all of that consistent.

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I'm very happy with my Sears one. They have a good selection.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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OK guys

 

I know nothing, except how to use it. I've used one a few times and I understand that part.

 

like what pound range do I want for tires? I get that Sears is good and I know they have their own brand so I can go there and look. But I just am trying to understand what I look for. What price range should I be looking at? Like is a $30 wrench going to last or should I be looking at the better ones? Is there a length that's best to look for. Are there accuracy ratings?

 

Little words and pictures if you want. I figure I'll need a set of sockets too?

 

Do they just make ones that are designed for tires? Are all of the tire ones the same?

 

 

Be verbose, I don't care :biggrin:

Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman

Tggrrr010.jpg

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I think I have this one:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-1-2inch-drive/p-00931425000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=39869:3:0

 

Your wheels should be torqued to 85 ft lbs (I think, double check in your owner's manual), so you want to make sure the torque wrench's range covers that.

 

You'll also need a 17mm socket.

image.php?u=8&type=sigpic&dateline=14186

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OK guys

 

I know nothing, except how to use it. I've used one a few times and I understand that part.

 

like what pound range do I want for tires? I get that Sears is good and I know they have their own brand so I can go there and look. But I just am trying to understand what I look for. What price range should I be looking at? Like is a $30 wrench going to last or should I be looking at the better ones? Is there a length that's best to look for. Are there accuracy ratings?

 

Little words and pictures if you want. I figure I'll need a set of sockets too?

 

Do they just make ones that are designed for tires? Are all of the tire ones the same?

 

Be verbose, I don't care :biggrin:

Your wheels should be torqued to 85 ft lbs (I think, double check in your owner's manual), so you want to make sure the torque wrench's range covers that.

 

You'll also need a 17mm socket.

I am not 100% sure, but I think the 1st Gens are supposed to be torqued "85-90" ft lbs. I always torqued to 88 when I swapped out my wheels.

 

Also, as Laura indicated, you don't need a full socket set, you only need a 17mm one. I recommend a "deep" version (they are a longer tube) to more easily clear your wheels without the wrench making contact with the wheel. Also, if you want to go double duty and use it with an powered impact wrench like the one that Craig owns - I also bought a cordless one of my own recently), then don't buy a regular socket, buy an impact socket. They are much stronger & more durable, able to handle the power of an impact wrench.

 

Finally, you will probably see choices of 6 pt vs. 12 pt - pt stands for "point". I recommend buying a 6 point, because they are stronger. 12 point are a tiny bit easier to use, because there are twice as many positions when sliding the socket onto the wheel bolt... but the walls of the 12 points are thinner and therefore less durable.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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I have two torque wrenches, both Sears Craftsman. The older one is a 'beam' style one that ranges to 70 Newton metres, 600 inch pounds. The newer one is a 'dial' or 'click' wrench, that ranges to 210 Newton metres, 150 foot pounds. I bought this newer one specifically for lug nuts.

JAB 67

Fairfax, VA

2004 MCS, PW/B

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I have two torque wrenches, both Sears Craftsman. The older one is a 'beam' style one that ranges to 70 Newton metres, 600 inch pounds. The newer one is a 'dial' or 'click' wrench, that ranges to 210 Newton metres, 150 foot pounds. I bought this newer one specifically for lug nuts.

 

Thanks, I'm starting to understand better now. I don't want to waste my money.

Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman

Tggrrr010.jpg

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Oh yeah, one more thing to add... you'll find two common drive sizes of torque wrench and sockets - 3/8" and 1/2". I recommend 1/2", because again, it's stronger. Note that you have to buy your wrench and sockets with the same drive size, or the socket won't fit onto the wrench.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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Who wants to come with me to Sears? :biggrin:

 

I'll buy a coffee :tee:

If mutual scheduling permits, I'll be happy to help. I don't drink coffee though. :tongue:

 

Note that Sears stores can be notoriously hit or miss in terms of whether they'll have what you need in stock. If they are missing something, your options are to drive to another Sears store or simply order what you need and wait for it.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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If mutual scheduling permits, I'll be happy to help. I don't drink coffee though. :tongue:

 

Note that Sears stores can be notoriously hit or miss in terms of whether they'll have what you need in stock. If they are missing something, your options are to drive to another Sears store or simply order what you need and wait for it.

 

 

Sigh, you're going to make me pony up for a beer aren't you?

 

:beerglass: :biggrin:

 

Even if they don't have it, I'll order it and pick it up. I don't have to have it right away.

Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman

Tggrrr010.jpg

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Sigh, you're going to make me pony up for a beer aren't you?

 

:beerglass: :biggrin:

 

Even if they don't have it, I'll order it and pick it up. I don't have to have it right away.

So far, with recent visits, I've had more success with the weird Sears location directly across from Dogfish Head Alehouse on Rt. 7 (I swear this is not part of the "beer plan"!) than I have with the Landmark mall one. I imagine that other locations might be even better in terms of what they keep in stock.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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So far, with recent visits, I've had more success with the weird Sears location directly across from Dogfish Head Alehouse on Rt. 7 (I swear this is not part of the "beer plan"!) than I have with the Landmark mall one. I imagine that other locations might be even better in terms of what they keep in stock.

 

 

hmmmm me thinks this is part of a beer plan

Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman

Tggrrr010.jpg

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A harbor Freight Torque wrench on sale (on sale almost all the time) is $11.00. List is $20.00. These wrenches have a +/- 4% accuracy. A comparable Sears wrench is $35.00 and is better made. A +/- 3 percent wrench cost $100.00 or more. Some are digital and some are called click type. digital does not mean more accurate. I prefer the click type. A click type goes click and slips a little when the torque is achieved. You have to be looking at the digital read out to know. If you are assembling a engine you need a good torque wrench, and how to prepare the parts being connected. The point of my last post was to point out that the cheap wrenches are more accurate than the conditions when torqueing lug nuts. If you want to make the wrench last. (any torque wrench) do not use it to loosen bolts. Torque wrenches do not like to work backwards. Do not leave the wrench adjusted to the torque setting. Set the wrench at the lowest setting so the spring doesn't sag. You will need a socket, and maybe a short extension for convenience. I would also get a breaker bar to remove the lugs.

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A harbor Freight Torque wrench on sale (on sale almost all the time) is $11.00. List is $20.00. These wrenches have a +/- 4% accuracy. A comparable Sears wrench is $35.00 and is better made. A +/- 3 percent wrench cost $100.00 or more. Some are digital and some are called click type. digital does not mean more accurate. I prefer the click type. A click type goes click and slips a little when the torque is achieved. You have to be looking at the digital read out to know. If you are assembling a engine you need a good torque wrench, and how to prepare the parts being connected. The point of my last post was to point out that the cheap wrenches are more accurate than the conditions when torqueing lug nuts. If you want to make the wrench last. (any torque wrench) do not use it to loosen bolts. Torque wrenches do not like to work backwards. Do not leave the wrench adjusted to the torque setting. Set the wrench at the lowest setting so the spring doesn't sag. You will need a socket, and maybe a short extension for convenience. I would also get a breaker bar to remove the lugs.

 

 

Thanks Carl!

Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman

Tggrrr010.jpg

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Digital torque wrenches beep when you have reached the limit you set.

 

Get yourself some plastic coated sockets for your wheels :top:

 

Mine also has a lights, when its there they are yellow and turn red when you over torque. Also they are easy to set in the dark.

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Hi all.

 

Here's my $0.02...

 

Ally, buy ANY torque wrench you want. All you are going to be using it for is your wheels, so it really won't make any difference. They all will be within the accuracy range to make sure the bolts don't come out.

 

Pick a 1/2" drive model. Most 3/8" drive wrenches won't go high enough to do the job.

 

Pick a wrench where the torque you are applying is above 1/4 and less than 3/4 fill scale. (ex: if you are applying 88 Lb=ft of torque, a 10-100 Lb-ft wrench is NOT adequate.) But a 10-150 wrench is. The reason is that wrenches are much less accurate near the extremes.

 

For your intended use, A cheap Harbor Fright Tools 1/2" drive 0-150 would be fine at $20. While you are there, buy the lug nut socket kit. It's 3 plastic coated sockets (6 total sizes as the sockets have two sizes each), and an extension. It protect your wheels. I think I paid $6...

 

That said. I've got 6 different torque things. A 0-250 Torque angle wrench ($250), a Snap-On flex head (got it in barter, but probably cost $400 or more), a 0-150 electronic load cell (accurate to +- 2%), a 0-80 3/8" and a 1/4" drive lb-in wrench, and a HFT 1/2"er... Guess which one I use the most? The HFT's wrench. Mostly because wheels are the most frequent thing...

 

What can I say? Some people collect shoes, or Hummel's, or baseball cards.. I collect tools...lol

No matter where you go, there you are!

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