1975_mini

Plastidip is approved up to 200 degrees, but I would not go that route, the easy of peeling if you don't like is cancelled out by the fact it would be sealed in the headlight and you would have to take it all apart again. There are example of people using PD without any issues. As for the the brushed metal look I like that idea, but I don't think sanding the chrome finish on the plastic ring would give the result you are looking for. I think it would be more likely the finish will crack or flake. There are spray paints that produce a brushed finish (nickle, cooper, etc...), but I do not know how that would do with the heat.

I have seen a lot of people tie in their cars base color or accent color by painting the chrome ring that color. Not sure how that would look with white. I would maybe go with a gun metal grey on the rings. so it doesn't washout with all black, but you also get rid of the chrome. Just food for thought

Burning fossil fuels in honor of earth day, I like where your head is at. Wish I could make it.

What intercooler did you go with. Bilstein covers a wide price point you can get B12s for around 1000 or B16 up around 2500. What price point are you looking to be at, if under 1k I would say just hold off. Maybe go with sport springs to lower the center of gravity as a temp solution for like 250 bucks till you can do a full coilover switch.

I was looking at your mods listed below, have you upgraded your inner cooler and exhaust? I would recommend those before a larger turbo as the new turbo may push more air but if flow is restricted down the line you are not going to get all the benefits. Just my opinion. The N14 has an issue with oil blow by under normal boost if you are going to increase it an oil catch can is cheap and a good investment.

If this is still around when I get back I may have to check it out. Devinately has my interest.

He does have the proper "V" neck apparel :top:

So its not just me, I will keep the rest of my comments to myself.

has anyone heard back from Mike I emailed him a question and have got crickets back.

Nice product placement:rofl:

There was a class action law suit on the HVFP, so also if you already had to replace it, you can file to be reimbursed the cost of labor and parts. They will replace if it is going bad or has failed only, not just because it has not been replaced yet. so you have to wait for that bomb to go off, lol.

Thanks for the info, you got what I was going for the change in ride height effecting the orientation of the sway bar. Thanks

The stance looks great, I was definitely interested in see how it would look after you mentioned it at the M&G. One question did you change outthe sway bar links to shorter or adjustment one? If not does the sway bar seem to be preloaded? Thanks for sharing and look forward to what else you do.

I just say his email I guess I can ask directly. Lol

I did not see it on the list but it is a newer issue. Can Mike change the UBS iPhone adapter (in center console) and USB 2 iPhone adapter (in arm rest) from analog to digital. This allow your music to stream through the apple lightening plug as opposed to also using an audio jack.

If it has a deep V Tyler maybe interested.:rofl:

holds at around 11ish with over boost up to 13ish. It is controlled by the ECU so it is not a good idea to play with the wastgate to increase boost, should only be changed via a tune. JCW are holding 20ish with over boost pushing 24. I included a graph from a tune sight that has the OEM boost map along with the map after their tune.

This looks like it will be an awesome event, I am jealous. Wish I was still there to attend. Good idea Dan:top:

It really depends where the component is sourced from. It pretty much all metric there are just a few odd balls like the allen wrench to hold the sway arm bolt is standard but the nut on the bolt is metric. Just the quirkiness of MINI:top:

Brandy needs to get tint on Nila, but I plan on waiting for your move around the beltway as Maryland tint laws a a bit more lax. Tint darkness for sedans: Windshield: Non-reflective tint is allowed on the top 5 inches of the windshield. Front Side windows: Must allow more than 35% of light in. Back Side windows: Must allow more than 35% of light in. Rear Window: Must allow more than 35% of light in. Tint darkness for SUV and vans: Windshield: Non-reflective tint is allowed on the top 5 inches of the windshield. Front Side windows: Must allow more than 35% of light in. Back Side windows: Any darkness can be used. Rear Window: Any darkness can be used. What I need to find out is does Maryland consider a countryman an SUV. Is there someone that has MD plates on their Countryman, and can tell me if the registration says sedan or SUV? Thanks:top:

We will be there at 6:30

Haha, I already studied.

I went with VIP for the sway bar.

So I ordered brandy a 23mm adjustable rear sway bar a while back and did not get a chance to install it. So since I am home alone I decided today was the day. I decided to do it in the driveway since the weather was nice and I have all the tools or so I thought. I pull out my floor jack and jack stands to get the rear end in the air. This is when I found out the countryman does not have to rubber jack point but instead the crappy reinforced pinch weld points. Guest I need to order an adapter block for my jack. No sweet I can find some solid point to get it in the air and on stands. I a climb under to decide where to use, this is an advantage of the countryman, not sliding under a clubman or hardtop when it's on the ground. So I glance at the subframe bolts I will need to undo it get the sway bar in and out. What is staring back at me but an echo head bolt, when the hell did that change. Damn you MINI. For those of you unfamiliar with an echo bolt think torx but reversed ( I included a picture). I definitely don't own those sockets, but they are on my birthday/Xmas list now. Luckily I live on base so it is off the the the auto hobby shop to see how the other half live. There were lifts, air tools, and heated garage space!! I now understand how first class must feel. So I rent a lift, with snapon toolbox full of goodies. 6 hours an hour. The mechanic there to help, told me several time why don't you raise to lift higher as they found me sitting on the floor with my head in a wheel well. I told them it was how I am used to working, they gave up on me at that point, and I tooled away. Air tools definitely make life easier. I had to do the sway bar links by hand, and I have no idea why the Allen key you need to hold the bolt is standard when everything else is metric. The air racket made short work of the shock. Had to do the sway bar links by hand do to clearance, the front even had to be done by box wrench that took some time. Then it was time for the subframe bolts They took some planning to get an angle on them, but not to bad. As brandy has an all4 there is a bit more to work around back there. Also people people said you didn't need to support the subframe as the diff has rear mounts. I placed a trans jack under and it allowed better control as I work the sway bar out. I was able to remove the old 17mm bar with little effort. I include a picture of the old and new I replaced the OEM with a 23 mm with 3 adjustments. Only a little pleading and one POS and the new one was in. I set it to the middle setting for now. Everything went back together in reverse with easy. The only causality was my thumb nail, I was not paying attention and pinched my thumb retween the control arm and the air rachet. I included a picture of the result going to be loading the nail in about a week. The project took about 2:30 hours, and that was with me taking my time. I texted brandy to tell her it was done, and told her about the thumb incident. She ask how did it feel. I said it hurt but not bad. She responded with, I meant how does the new sway bar feel in the MINI. We see where her priorities lie.