1975_mini

He is alive!!! pulled apart the carb and went nuts with a can of carb cleaner. Once I blew all the chunks a dissolving rubber out of the jet and clean off what was caked on the needle he fired up like a champ when I filled the float with gas.:top::top: The float gasket was dry rotted so not driveable till the new one comes in, but that will take a minute once it comes in. Also waiting on the new rear brake drums, and will be replacing both rear drum assemblies. should take an hour or two. He is running though, so good day overall.

I replaced the failed hose with anew modern rubber hose so should not be as susceptible. If your burning through the gas it is less of an issue. It was that I only asked Brandy would start him once a month and let him run for like 30 minutes, so gas sat in the lines a lot. I went with her running it as opposed to draining it and storing it dry, just gave out right before I got home, because I drove it when I was home in April. I got extra hose and will replace all the rubber section just to be safe. The big issue is ethanol fumes with eat a metal gas tank. The ethanol in gas is why lawnmower and other small engines do not last. Shouldn't be an issue, carb rebuild will take an afternoon once the parts arrive. I want him running earlier than later as I may pitch to David putting a MTTB vinyl on him and sticking him out front at PMoA as advertisement.

Now that we are settled into the new house and getting back to normal it is time to give Watson a little TLC and get him back on the road. For those that don't know he was a little mad at me for being gone for two year and decided not to start when I got home. A quick walk through found that the rubber gas line from the tank had been eaten by the ethanol in modern gas (damn you environmentalist). We did a quick replace of the line but no luck. I was sure the dissolving line had gummed up the fuel system. So we rolled him on the trailer and pushed him into the back of the new garage till i had more time. That brings us to today. I started with the tried and true method of charge the battery, turn the key, and verbally abuse him till it starts (the equivalent of the IT troubleshooting step of turn it off and back on). No luck, but it works 10% of the time. So time to get under the hood, I was pretty sure the carb was clogged up so we started there. I pulled the cover off the float and this is what it looked like. That is gas. I am pretty sure the MINI is not a two stroke engine, so milky gas is not a good thing. This is what the fuel looked like after I drained the float, not a good color. so time to pull the Carb. Only took like two minutes to remove the carb, one of the great things about the simple motors in these classic Minis. Now just waiting for the rebuild kit to come in the mail. Amazingly the local Autozone didn't have the parts. Hopefully I will have an update this weekend.

Just bumping this to the top of the forum, in case anyone is looking for something to do on Sunday.

Just finish the shopping run, and we will make the run.

I was confused, when I first read the post I had a mental image of Laura blasting 90's gansta rap through her 12" sub. Then I clicked on the link, and that made way more sense.:rofl:

First I am going to say the method I know is a cheap way to shorten lock to lock, but should never be done as it seriously throws off the turning geometry of the car!!! Drifters will shorten the turning arm either by cutting and welding or offsetting with a bracket. This will reduce lock to lock. Like I said before this killing the turning geometry. Great if you want your car to go sideways through a turn, not so much for tracking through a turn. You really would need to replace rack and pinion gears, i wonder if the steering box may be interchangeable with one for other BMW models. Just a thought.

Wardel is not only good but pretty quick. I would not be surprised if he could squeeze in your rear glass somewhere during the day.

Those five spots filled up quick. Lol

Here is an example of a joey mod with white. It's not a R60, but at least gives you an idea

Plastidip is approved up to 200 degrees, but I would not go that route, the easy of peeling if you don't like is cancelled out by the fact it would be sealed in the headlight and you would have to take it all apart again. There are example of people using PD without any issues. As for the the brushed metal look I like that idea, but I don't think sanding the chrome finish on the plastic ring would give the result you are looking for. I think it would be more likely the finish will crack or flake. There are spray paints that produce a brushed finish (nickle, cooper, etc...), but I do not know how that would do with the heat.

I have seen a lot of people tie in their cars base color or accent color by painting the chrome ring that color. Not sure how that would look with white. I would maybe go with a gun metal grey on the rings. so it doesn't washout with all black, but you also get rid of the chrome. Just food for thought

Burning fossil fuels in honor of earth day, I like where your head is at. Wish I could make it.

What intercooler did you go with. Bilstein covers a wide price point you can get B12s for around 1000 or B16 up around 2500. What price point are you looking to be at, if under 1k I would say just hold off. Maybe go with sport springs to lower the center of gravity as a temp solution for like 250 bucks till you can do a full coilover switch.

I was looking at your mods listed below, have you upgraded your inner cooler and exhaust? I would recommend those before a larger turbo as the new turbo may push more air but if flow is restricted down the line you are not going to get all the benefits. Just my opinion. The N14 has an issue with oil blow by under normal boost if you are going to increase it an oil catch can is cheap and a good investment.

If this is still around when I get back I may have to check it out. Devinately has my interest.

He does have the proper "V" neck apparel :top:

So its not just me, I will keep the rest of my comments to myself.

has anyone heard back from Mike I emailed him a question and have got crickets back.

Nice product placement:rofl:

There was a class action law suit on the HVFP, so also if you already had to replace it, you can file to be reimbursed the cost of labor and parts. They will replace if it is going bad or has failed only, not just because it has not been replaced yet. so you have to wait for that bomb to go off, lol.

Thanks for the info, you got what I was going for the change in ride height effecting the orientation of the sway bar. Thanks

The stance looks great, I was definitely interested in see how it would look after you mentioned it at the M&G. One question did you change outthe sway bar links to shorter or adjustment one? If not does the sway bar seem to be preloaded? Thanks for sharing and look forward to what else you do.

I just say his email I guess I can ask directly. Lol

I did not see it on the list but it is a newer issue. Can Mike change the UBS iPhone adapter (in center console) and USB 2 iPhone adapter (in arm rest) from analog to digital. This allow your music to stream through the apple lightening plug as opposed to also using an audio jack.