RichSperry

I wasn't talking about the car, I meant the Invidia...lol

Just kill me now. It drones all the time, especially when you get on it...lol Man that would get old. That's why I got rid of the Invidia I had... All of one week... Plus you probably just kill the resale of the Invidia but having it cut off so close to the muffler. But hey, it's a free country...

Craig, sorry to see Merlin go, but did you ever get these sold? I still might be interested. Rich

I'm using the TSW spring, Koni yellows, and Hsport rear bar. I think it's more comfortable than the stock setup. I wouldn't have a problem using the FSD shocks with the TSW springs. (they only lower the car about .5")

Interesting... I started modding the car even before it was delivered...lol Or it at least seems like it. If it were me, I'd make sure that I followed an old school maintenance schedule, and performed routine inspections, if I was going to keep the car long term. If all maintenance is up to date, and you know of any little niggling issues, and you have some discretionary income, go ahead, mod the car. Life is really too short to drive a really boring car.

Here are my thoughts. BMW/MINI, (and every other car manufacturer), says to start the car, let the idle stabilize, and then start driving. Why? Because they want to get the car to actually warm up. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is first started and the oil is cold. Letting it idle to warm up increases emissions, and takes longer to warm the oil, leading to increased engine wear. If you really want to do something, install a block heater. But I'm just a old dumb engineer, I could be wrong...

Usually most auto parts places have the tool you need for a free rent. (borrow)

Oh and the steering wheel that comes stock on a JCW is the exact same brick that comes on a MCS, except it has red stitching... The ones you want are the option wheels from the MINI parts guys...

If any members are in the Maryland area, I've got a lift and tools... I work for beer. ;-)

I've got the Alcantara/leather JCW wheel, had it for about 2 years now. It's holding up fine. But I don't park it in the sun either. The key is to keep your hands clean. If you are one that uses a lot of lotions, or sweat a lot, it may not be for you. The wheel itself is much better than stock. It's thicker, and more squishy. It feels great... The stock wheel feels like a brick now.

Check in NAM. It replaces the puddle light in the door.

Do you happen to know what year the sensors are for? The change was for the 2010 year. As in 07-09 use one sensor, 10+ use the other...

White is only for between May and October.. Seriously, just think of the brake dust...

You are under no obligation to use the shop that State Farm says. You may use ANY shop you want. State Farm lists that shop, as they will stand behind the work a little harder. (which really isn't saying very much with an insurance company...lol) I have no experience with body shops in Va, sorry

If it were me I'd go buy a recharge can with gauge and hook it up and see. It might be something simple like it's just low on charge... (yes, I know that won't fix a problem, but it's a start to see what pressure you do have...) Besides, it's only about $20...

The springs wore out? Really?

Pittsburgh? Probably the same brand they sell at HFT... As in Pittsburgh, China...lol

Heck, I'm retired, so if I'm not playing golf or mowing the lawn, (or more recently visiting doctors? what's up with that??? lol) I'm free. What type/size walnut media do you have? I'm pretty sure that the valves should take a 20/30 (medium if I'm not mistaken?) And the medium is reusable (up to a point) I'd think you would want something more abrasive than that for the wheel centers.

Hi all. Here's my $0.02... Ally, buy ANY torque wrench you want. All you are going to be using it for is your wheels, so it really won't make any difference. They all will be within the accuracy range to make sure the bolts don't come out. Pick a 1/2" drive model. Most 3/8" drive wrenches won't go high enough to do the job. Pick a wrench where the torque you are applying is above 1/4 and less than 3/4 fill scale. (ex: if you are applying 88 Lb=ft of torque, a 10-100 Lb-ft wrench is NOT adequate.) But a 10-150 wrench is. The reason is that wrenches are much less accurate near the extremes. For your intended use, A cheap Harbor Fright Tools 1/2" drive 0-150 would be fine at $20. While you are there, buy the lug nut socket kit. It's 3 plastic coated sockets (6 total sizes as the sockets have two sizes each), and an extension. It protect your wheels. I think I paid $6... That said. I've got 6 different torque things. A 0-250 Torque angle wrench ($250), a Snap-On flex head (got it in barter, but probably cost $400 or more), a 0-150 electronic load cell (accurate to +- 2%), a 0-80 3/8" and a 1/4" drive lb-in wrench, and a HFT 1/2"er... Guess which one I use the most? The HFT's wrench. Mostly because wheels are the most frequent thing... What can I say? Some people collect shoes, or Hummel's, or baseball cards.. I collect tools...lol

Perhaps a small get together, BBQ and maintenance party... How much did they charge Mark?

Let's not get all excited yet, either the wand or the vacuum adapter is on back order, but I should have it by next week. Also let me do mine first, so I can figure out the process...lol

I've had the blast cabinet for years, so tes, it works. I just have to get some walnut media.

Well I bought the tools to do walnut blasting of the intake valves. Would anyone be interested, and what's it worth to you... No I don't want to make a living doing it...lol

To get the front strut out, I use a piece of wood (1x1xabout 3') between the bottom of the spring mount on the strut and the ground and then lower the lift. First soak the part where the strut goes into the spindle with AiroKroil or other penatrating oil. For the rear bar, I just remove the rearmost subframe bolts, and loosen the front. It makes the job way easier. And if I read the rules correctly, you can modify, or replace a SINGLE anti roll bar. http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012_Solo_Rules_May.pdf Rule 13.7A. Anyway, If you want to come out here to Eldersburg, you can use my lift and tools. (heated garage a bonus...lol)

I've done a few of these things, and I don't see how you'd do the rear without lowering (maybe not totally unbolting the subframe). I'd pass on the front bar anyway. You will also have to drill out the rear spring hats to 12mm so the Koni's will fit through. Also you need a way to get the front strut out of the spindle. It's not as easy as the write up seems.