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Well, I'm thinking about ordering a new set of tires soon. I've been sticking with the standard 17" Dunlop SP9000 Sport Runflats but now am considering switching to something different. For two reasons:

 

1) Lower cost if possible

2) Might try running 215/45/17 instead of 205/45/17

 

Tirerack's cheapest Runflat in the 215 size is the Kumho Ecsta SPT XRP (Ultra High Performance Summer).

 

I definitely want to stick with Runflats. If these Kumho's have decent wear, traction (wet/dry) and performance then I'll be happy. I'm just not sure how they'll compare to the Dunlops since they're half the price!!

 

So, any suggestions?

2006 MCS, SB/S , "B.A."

  • Performance: DINAN "Stage 5" tune, throttle body, boost kit (fuel pump, pulley), & CAI; JCW exhaust sans resonator, brakes, & GP IC; DDM IC diverter; CSF Racing Aluminum Radiator
  • Suspension: DINAN front strut brace; Alta 22mm rear bar; KW V1 coil-overs; H-Sport adjustable rear control arms; CravenSpeed strut underators
  • Interior: CravenSpeed gauge mounts with Cooper S boost and voltage, & shift well cover
  • Wheels: Enkei PF01 17"
  • Audio: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 HU; MTX Terminator speakers F&B

Alan @ opensource.com

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I haven't read anything about the SPT XRP but I did make the leap away from runflats and I went with the Kumho Ecsta ASX - their extreme performance all-season tire. I haven't looked back. They worked well in the snow and they worked great on the fall colors run last year with the wet leaves and I can't complain about how they worked at the autocross yesterday.

 

215/45 shouldn't be a problem at all, I ran that on mine after lowering it without any issue. I went to 225/50's and got a little rub and now, I'm running 235/40's with minor rubbing when I'm at a full turn.

 

I do like the Kumho's!

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer"

2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold

2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold

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Well, I'm thinking about ordering a new set of tires soon. I've been sticking with the standard 17" Dunlop SP9000 Sport Runflats but now am considering switching to something different. For two reasons:

 

1) Lower cost if possible

2) Might try running 215/45/17 instead of 205/45/17

 

Tirerack's cheapest Runflat in the 215 size is the Kumho Ecsta SPT XRP (Ultra High Performance Summer).

 

I definitely want to stick with Runflats. If these Kumho's have decent wear, traction (wet/dry) and performance then I'll be happy. I'm just not sure how they'll compare to the Dunlops since they're half the price!!

 

So, any suggestions?

 

I replaced Dunlop runflats (205s) with non-runflat Kumho Ecsta SPTs (215ZR4018). I really like the non-runflats because they're not as harsh as the Dunlop runflats for my 2002 MCS. The Ecsta SPTs are not good in the snow (but they're not supposed to be) but are fine otherwise. I haven't driven them aggressively yet so I don't know how sticky they are. They were $98 each from tirerack.com, so I'm very happy with them for now. I don't think you'll have a problem with 215s over 205s. Good luck.

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I'm on my third set of Kumho SPT non-runflat tires. I think they are real

 

good for the price. I usually get 20-25 thousand miles on each set before

 

they get extremely noisy, then it's time for another set. The last set I

 

bought from the Tire Rack were $84.00 per tire. Don't know what the

 

runflats go for.:motor:

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MAN! Those Kumho's sure are cheap. The only reservation I have is that I like the piece of mind of having the runflats. I suppose that I could try the non-RF's and then have a spare for long trips. SO much to think about :banghead:

2006 MCS, SB/S , "B.A."

  • Performance: DINAN "Stage 5" tune, throttle body, boost kit (fuel pump, pulley), & CAI; JCW exhaust sans resonator, brakes, & GP IC; DDM IC diverter; CSF Racing Aluminum Radiator
  • Suspension: DINAN front strut brace; Alta 22mm rear bar; KW V1 coil-overs; H-Sport adjustable rear control arms; CravenSpeed strut underators
  • Interior: CravenSpeed gauge mounts with Cooper S boost and voltage, & shift well cover
  • Wheels: Enkei PF01 17"
  • Audio: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 HU; MTX Terminator speakers F&B

Alan @ opensource.com

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Since I would have to carry a spare inside the car and lose that limited space, my "spare" is a bottle of slime, a 12v compressor and a AAA card. This past winter, I found out that "fix-a-flat" doesn't work at/near freezing temps. Thankfully, it wasn't my flat that needed to be fixed. Anyway, with that small kit, I can quickly "fix" a flat and get myself back on the road if needed.

 

The change in the ride and noise when I switched to non RF's was like night and day!

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer"

2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold

2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold

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I have/had Yokohama S Drives on both of my MINI's. They are now so noisey I can't stand it! They sounds like 40" tall super swampers on a big ol' Chevy 4X4! Well, close to it anyway. It's so bad, I put the run flats on the 07 and they sounded and rode better!

 

I'm in the market too, but I can swear to ya, it won't be S Drives!

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I'm very happy with my Pirelli PZero RFTs (also available in non-RFT of course).

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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Remember, do not "slime" if you have direct TPS system. It will cost you an extra $60 if you do. A plug kit and a compressor work fine for holes.

 

I still am partial to RE 960's. I found on my RSX, ( same weight) many tires in our size seemed to be for much heavier cars. Performance lightly loaded, like off the line, or in the rain was not as expected.

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Thanks for the posts guys, I've decided to go with the Pirelli PZero RFTs in the stock size. It's a good thing too, my current tires are dang worn out :laugh:

2006 MCS, SB/S , "B.A."

  • Performance: DINAN "Stage 5" tune, throttle body, boost kit (fuel pump, pulley), & CAI; JCW exhaust sans resonator, brakes, & GP IC; DDM IC diverter; CSF Racing Aluminum Radiator
  • Suspension: DINAN front strut brace; Alta 22mm rear bar; KW V1 coil-overs; H-Sport adjustable rear control arms; CravenSpeed strut underators
  • Interior: CravenSpeed gauge mounts with Cooper S boost and voltage, & shift well cover
  • Wheels: Enkei PF01 17"
  • Audio: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 HU; MTX Terminator speakers F&B

Alan @ opensource.com

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So, for those of us who don't know that much about tire options, I could use some advice. My 09 Clubman S needs a new set; it came with Continental ProContact SSRs 195/55/16. The dealer and TireRack seem to both agree that that's the best replacements, and I want all-season tires since I live in a condo and don't have room to store an extra set. Opinions? Recommendations?

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Chief,

Do you want to stay with the Runflats? I run non RF all-season tires and they did great in the snow, no problems in the rain and I even auto cross them where they do great so far. Since I don't have a spare, I do have a small 12v compressor, tire plug kit and a bottle of "Slime" that I keep in the boot. It all fits in the cargo net so it's not rolling around. I've also got AAA in case I really can't repair the tire.

 

As far as tire size goes, your options are pretty much limited by the 16" wheels and the kind of tire you decide to go with. Your OEM tire has a section width of 7.9" and a diameter of 24.4 (according to the specs for it). You can go about .5" wider without any worries about rubbing and your diameter can "grow" a little (I'd say no more than 24.9" diameter). My Cooper S is lowered and I'm running 235/45R-18's with no problems. I went with that size to put the most rubber on the road that has the OEM diameter (they are about .2" larger) and substantially wider.

 

I can vouch for the Kumho's, I'm running Ecsta ASX's on the MINI and Lona has the same tires on her 350Z. They seem to be wearing very well with about 8,000 miles on them and 7 days of autocross.

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer"

2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold

2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold

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Well, I also have a AAA card, so I guess I could get along with not having runflats--never had them on any other car--but I've never compared "section widths" or "diameters" before. I also wondered whether I'd be better getting 17" wheels. My driving is mostly commuting but I do love those Mini runs!

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You've got choices in 16" and you'll save money by not having to buy new wheels so that's one advantage. By going to 17 or 18" wheels, you have more options.

 

If you'd like, I can put together a spreadsheet that lists the "specs" on tires and compare them to your originals. I did that when I was deciding what size tires I wanted to go with.

 

More or less, it comes down to what kind of tire you want - Run Flat or Not - Summer or All-Season and then wheel size and then tire size. I'd say you would be very safe in going no larger than 205/50R as it'll keep the diameter close to factory and it shouldn't have any issues with rubbing anywhere. The slightly lower profile will still handle well but you'll notice an improvement in the quality of the ride.

 

The two biggest decisions would be the Run Flat or not and the wheel size as they will have the biggest impact upon the cost of the tire (unless you decide to go with one of the more exotic (expensive) tires.

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer"

2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold

2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold

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Thanks for the advice so far, and I'd like to see that spreadsheet. I'm pretty sure I want all-season, not necessarily RunFlats, and I'm thinking of new wheels anyway because I'm not crazy about the "standard" wheels I got, so 16 or 17". I saw some nice ones on TireRack.com.

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I will vouch for the selection that Dan has and the prices are good too. I've had a couple of sets of tires drop shipped to Mach V so I was able to roll in and out pretty quickly with the new "shoes" on the car. I'll get on the spreadsheet for you as soon as I finish folding laundry! :)

 

Edit: Okay, laundry is done. The attached PDF lists all of the tires mentioned in previous posts so it includes run flats and non-run flats. I sorted the list based upon the overall diameter. I stayed at 195 and 205 for both 16" and 17" wheels and I listed everything from 40-55 profiles. All of the specs are from Tirerack.com, as are the prices.

 

As far as wheels, I've had a set of the Rota RB's (Black with polished lip) which were stolen and I replaced them with the Rota Torque (gunmetal) because they cleared the brake kit that I installed. I do like the RB's, they have a very classic look to them and a couple of other members have them now. I would have gone with the Team Dynamic wheels but I don't remember what changed my mind - they weren't in stock or something but I was looking for instant gratification so my field of view was pretty narrow. The Rota MC's are also really nice looking and I think Dan still has a set of them on the Mach V mini.

Edited by cmcveay

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer"

2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold

2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold

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I put on RE 960's this week. 205-55-16. Much Quieter, less harsh, but a really big change is steering response. I have to re-learn the car. After it does change direction, they have a lot more grip than the Conti's. It is just that a corner is now a two step process. This is not a fault, but a return to normal. I ran them on my RSX and was very pleased for Maryland weather as well as sporty driving.

 

Note I put on Bilstein's already so there was no change in the bouncyness over bumps. It was already cured.

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I put on RE 960's this week. 205-55-16. Much Quieter, less harsh, but a really big change is steering response. I have to re-learn the car. After it does change direction, they have a lot more grip than the Conti's. It is just that a corner is now a two step process. This is not a fault, but a return to normal.
That is the key difference between runflats and non-runflats, and why I choose to continue to use runflats. They have much sharper turn-in, without the "mushiness" of a flexible sidewall.

 

I personally don't give a damn about the harsher ride, the instantaneous, darting directional changes are worth it to me. Since my MINI is a street car, I am less likely to need/use the higher limit of grip of softer non-runflat rubber, than I am of the ability to instantly change lanes or dart around an obstacle. On a track car, it would of course be a different story. Everyone has different priorities.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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I can't argue the logic of Haemish's post above. The 205/55R-16's that I was running were really comfortable and they handled well but they were just a little "deaf" when it came to listening to what I wanted them to do. Now, I'm running 235/40R-18's I can say that the shorter sidewall/lower profile tire, feels like I've still got that nimble response. Running a 40 profile tire with better than average adhesion has ended up making a difference. I've also played around with the tire pressure and I've found a range (within 2 psi) that gives me that quick response, a more comfortable ride and if I want to go autocross it, I get great handling there too! If I really want to get aggressive in autocross, I have to drop the pressure about 4 psi and it's ready to go.

 

Soooooo much information and sooooooo many choices! :)

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer"

2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold

2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold

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Yah, I found non run flats terrific. If ya need the peace of mind of run flats... that's fine.

I made the switch to non run flats strictly for performance. The friendly folks at Radial Tire in Silver Spring recommended the TOYO Proxes, T1R and I love them. I put them on my S, as well as my german station wagon. Both drive like different cars. I still have yet to get them to squeal on off ramps at speed. They are reasonably priced and are sticky as all get out, quiet and smooth. Forget about going anywhere in snow though, but they are quite decent in rain. I've been getting good wear out of them and I've never had tires that held air pressure as well before. Hmmm I still haven't picked up a can of tire fix!

Since I would have to carry a spare inside the car and lose that limited space, my "spare" is a bottle of slime, a 12v compressor and a AAA card. This past winter, I found out that "fix-a-flat" doesn't work at/near freezing temps. Thankfully, it wasn't my flat that needed to be fixed. Anyway, with that small kit, I can quickly "fix" a flat and get myself back on the road if needed.

 

The change in the ride and noise when I switched to non RF's was like night and day!

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I'd just like to remind everyone that run flats aren't necessarily the safety blanket they get credited to be. Brian hit a rock on HR MINI's Fall Colors Run last year and his run flat instantly turned into a went flat. There was no 50 miles at 50 mph factor involved. He was stopping right there! Even a plug kit and compressor wasn't gonna help in that situation.

 

I have a space saver in the boot of the Clubman and another I put in Tyler's MCS when he goes out of town. I even strap in one of the OEM wheels for my out of town runs, just to be sure. Around town he has enough friends to run by the house and grab the spare for him.

 

Long and short of the story, run flats are nice for some situations, but they won't have you covered in every instance.

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RE960's are still about the king of all-season. The softer sidewalls are a big change after you get used to the run-flats though. Watch the weight of after-market wheels. Some are terrible. I would stick with the Enki, Oz, or similar reputable lines.

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