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Available suspension summary

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Folowing is a quick summary of what I found available for shocks/springs/coilovers. I hope I picked MSRP's, as that was my intention, but as no sources are listed, no foul if a couple are low. For me, it is trying to figure out what is out there, what the smart people figure out. ( trends you know). Decision is totally for performance expectations. Not a budget nickle game.

 

I am still waffling. Not enough info on spring rates. I would like someone to pipe in and tell us what the camber change is with an inch and a half drop. In other words, if 1.5 neg is acceptable, do I need to buy plates and arms right off? Bilstein shocks and NM springs look like a suitable combo, but then again, I loved my KW's on my RSX......

 

STOCK SHOCKS

 

Koni Gold, FSD $600

Koni Yellow, adjustable $500

Bilstein Sport $500

 

COILOVERS

 

Bilstein PSS10 $2250 twin adj 10 way GM5-D902-H0

Cross Coilover $2500 8K ft, 7K rear, linear, 60mm. “track”

Ebiach Multi Pro R1 $2400 60mm, adj 1.2 to 2.2 adj

Ebiach R2 $3000 Remote res. Adj

H&R Street $1300 .6 min. drop, progressive

H&R RSS Race stiff

Koni Coilover $1300 sku 1150-5079 look progressive

KW V1 $1500 230 Lb ( 4.2k ft and r.)

KW V2 $1800 sing adj look like 60mm, lin. Tenders ft.

KW V3 $2300 twin adj

Megan Racing 8Kft, 6K rear, adj, lin

M7 $1500 240 ft, 280 rear, (4.3K, 5K ) or custom gas, 2-adj,

Out Motoring $1600 Modified Koni yellow and 2.5 springs,

Vmax $650 Fronts may be progressive

Moton $13,000 real race parts

 

SPRINGS

 

MINI Base Softer by 20%

Mini JCW $420 .4”, lin (stiffer)

MiniMadness Sport $240 .75 to 1” progressive

Koni $230 1.2”

Mach V Technic $240 1.25” progressive, 30% stiffer, progressive

H&R $260 1.4” 24% over S, 30% over base , progressive

NM 1.2 $250 1.2” prog.

B&G S2 $210 1” higher rates but still comfortable”

Mini Mania $280 1.2” pix looks prog “ adds camber, needs rear bar”

MiniMania perfor $298 .75 to 1.25

Eibach $350 1.2,” settles from 1 to 1.5 inch”, progressive

Apex/Moss $120

Dropzone 1.5” $130

M7 $260 1.5 progressive

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Nice list. Worth noting though, the JCW suspension isn't just springs:

 

1st Gen MINIs: Shocks and springs.

2nd Gen MINIs: Shocks, springs, rear sway bar, front sway bar.

 

For both models: Different part numbers (within each model) depending on the spec of your MINI (primarily auto vs. manual, sunroof vs. not).

 

Also, the JCW suspension is not available for the Clubman nor the convertibles. Hardtop only.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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Eibach pro kit 1.5 inch drop. No camber or adjustment needed. Just had to trim my bump stops. Had the wheel alignment checked twice no change at all after dropping my car.

2009 MINI Clubman Factory JCW CR/B

Helix BOV, DDM CAI, Helix STS, 35% tint, Black R113 wheels, eibach pro kit, 8000K 55w HID's.

2006 MINI Cooper S PS/B 176 fwhp/ 165 fwtq SOLD

2004 Pontiac GTO BLK 389 rwhp / 454 rwtq SOLD

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Yes, second generation. R56. There are a few more offerings for first.

I also found KYB makes shocks and of course the JCW shocks.

 

Not suprised different factory numbers for JCW or base parts depending on options. You get that level of detail from factory, you don't on aftermarket. Frequently, different rats right and left, and occasionally, even different valving. Modern cars are pretty well balanced, but as I drive 99% of the time with jut me, adjustable coilovers have slight advantages. At 2600 Lbs, not that big a deal. Big deal in my lightweight Spit at 1700 Lbs.

 

One side of me says FSD and NM springs to go civilized, another the Bilstein coilover with the KW V2 right behind. My perception is too much rebound as the main problem. I would hate to make is soft for the bumps when it really was valving.

 

One side effect if the research is finding all the cool parts I can put on my wife's 98 Civic. It is time for new Tokitos but mught as well de-camber while I am at it.

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Durrrrrrr. The Bilstein/H&R kit lowered it about 1.5" up front and about 1" in the rear, so now I need rear control arms to get the camber dialed in. Just called Helix and ordered them, should be here tomorrow.

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Durrrrrrr. The Bilstein/H&R kit lowered it about 1.5" up front and about 1" in the rear, so now I need rear control arms to get the camber dialed in. Just called Helix and ordered them, should be here tomorrow.

Please provide feedback on wheel hop over sharp bumps. NM springs on Bilsteins is starting to be a leading candidate. ( Or PSS10's, or V2's.....) My gut feeling is the problem is the shock to start with.

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Wheel hop is noticeably reduced. The ride is very controlled, and actually quite civilized around town. Put her in the twisties though, and the Bilsteins really shine. The front stays planted through the apex, no wandering, no body roll...nothing. The rear feels a little more dialed in, but I may move the bolts on the rear sway bar to the firmer setting - still playing with it.

 

The biggest difference I've notice is that I can feel the tires working a little harder, which is great because this gives really good feedback.

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Thanks. Sounds like one more vote that the shock is the main culprit. H&R being progressive may be a big part too.

 

I just drove a base Clubman. I would say it is closer over all to a streetable spring rate. Closer, being just a tad soft, where the S is further too stiff. One to 10, if 5 is "perfect" , the base is a 4 on the soft side, the S is a 8 on the stiff. My scale, my perception of what perfect is.

 

I may explore running the Bilsteins and base springs as I really don't feel the need to lower it. Still thinking about the Ireland camber plates and TMS rear links.

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