tvrgeek

I suspect they richen it up to keep it alive. Lean it out it will get hot. Interstring as it does not quite follow the baseline curve I saw on a tuners site. The other curve I saw the power came on earlier, but was even flatter going up. Topped at about 150. Seems to drive kind of like that. Computers sure have changed the way turbo's used to work. Those big-fat torque readings are what makes it so much fun. By the K&N, you just mean the element? Not a new airbox or any tubes?

Hope this is not a warning. After only 4K, I finally got time to slide under there and change the oil for the first time. Only 4 quarts came out. 5 went back in. I sure hope that is due to it being a brand new engine, but then again, never had that with any of my last 5 Honda's. At least it does not dump a cup of oil on the steering rack and chassis like the RSX. It would drip for a week! BTW, the $18 Purolater filter does not come with a copper washer. Only the O-ring.

NASCAR is trying to adjust the predicted hot pressures down to 1/4 Lb or less. That is their primary method of adjusting spring rates for a balance between 4 specific corners. Consider: NSACAR uses carbs, not because they perform better, but to reduce cost. Understand the reasoning before you transfer a decision from one set of requirements to another. I stand by simple reality, for street use it has no advantage over air. Basic physics. Hey, I have fallen for false claims and bought useless things too. Never feels good when you find out. Gullibility is a human trait. We all have it. Chill.

Sorry Edge, you have fallen hook line and sinker for the marketing wienies. Air does not "last". Valves and beads leak. It has nothing to do with if it is 80 or 100 % nitrogen. Factory tires seem to hold air better as the bead was nice and clean when the tire was mounted. Tires last longer? Yea, they do. In museums where they are expected to last 50 or 100 years. Totally irrelevant for the street. More consistant? Well, I am afraid the 1/8 Lb or so difference you will never know. If yoyu are racing in NASCAR, OK a difference. Street? No. Does not hurt. If it is free, fine. DRY is what is important and bottled N will be dry. Of course, that is useless after the wheel shop slobbers water and soap all over the bead to mount the new tires! Do as you wish. I don' begrudge the industry for being creative. Capitalism is great. I am offering some reasonable advice to others who may not understand it is basically a sham just like strut bars, so they can spend their money on things that actually make a car go fast. Rubber, alignment, an day with an instructor.....

Unless you have solid bushings, race rubber, and race springs, I suggest the feeling you got was placebo. Sorry. Modern unibody cars are very rigid. The suspension is mounted in rubber. 1/4 mm flex in the body is not going to be felt in the steering wheel. I don't say this to bust your chops, just to encourrage people to go for the parts that actually do make a big difference. Tires, shocks, sway bars, alignment, air pressure adjustments. Strut bars are a hold-over from the 70's when unibodies like my Scirraco were limp as wet noodles. Even then, you had to do some serious mods first. The bright side is they probably don't hurt performance, but I always wonder what they do to the accident crush progression. It is not like the Civic owner who goes from 13 inch wheels to 18's and wonders why he can't accelerate any more.

Thinking which gauges look about the closest. Autometer ultralights?

Cool, Mach V is sort of local! I was wondering if there was someone local who knew Mini. Short term, I think I'll throw some RS960 205's on my stock rims. Does anyone know a space saver spare that fits? Honda?

I see Craven has steel plates for under the tower. Now THAT makes sense. of course, a lot harder to install.

Great link. Much thanks. I would never have found it! Thanks to all. Good info. My experience is with OLD British cars. TVR, Morgan, TR, etc. I can work my way around a Honda but this is a new kind of beast. It is just getting harder than it used to be 30 years ago. But I just sold my RSX so maybe I can afford some decent tires and dump these run-flats. I really hope I can get it to handle as well as the RSX did. ( It was prepped a tad)

I might take you up on that. I am just up by the high school. If I bring my oil and my filter, what would GoodYear charge mer for the labor? (Gettilg lazey in my old age)

After 3000 miles on the Conti run flats, I have had enough of them. Way to harsh, goes airborne over expansion joints and do not grip anywhere like I am used to. I think I will put on RS960's in 205-16 and find a doughnut. Any idea what space savers fit? Honda? BTW, if I dump the TPS ( I tune the handling with air you know) Is their an easy way to turn the light off? Jumper it out to the ECU or something? VW has a better idea. You fill the tires where you want them and push a button. It then sets the range for what YOU picked.

If dry air is insufficient, then the sensor design is crap. ( like no thermal compensation). Air is 78% nitrogen. It is the moisture that is the problem, along with bad engineering and a slick way to extract $69 from gullible folks for a service that used to be free. Somebody say that race cars use it as they worry about 1/4 lb. and figured a way to make money. P.T. Barnum would be proud.

I want a voltmeter too. Upper strut bars are useless. In a modern car, the unibody is plenty stiff. In a race car with solid bushings and stiff springs they do work, but then again a race car would weld in a full cage anyway. Go back to my 66 Mustang or even my 79 VW, and yes, they needed the support. Not modern cars. I do hear tale the top of the strut mount is a bit bendy. I do not see how bolting a plate on TOP will help much. You are looking for a front sway bar first? Have you already increased the rear that much?

How the heck? Ok, I have an overpriced cartridge oil filter. I have a stock of Amzoil. Where the heck is the filter located? What size Allen fits the drain plug, ( On only happen to have SAE) and do I have any chance without a lift? I must say, the interior "British inconvenient" design is starting to pale compared to the BMW arrogance category. It would seem that they think only they are qualified tochange the oil, add that to their refusal to deal with the speedo problem and that I have more as delivered defects than my last 5 Honda's, the charm is wearing thin. Now ny windows "squeek" when it is damp, binding so safety kicks in and they won't close in the rain. Add that to the sunroof that won't open hot, a rattel somewhere in the drivers B pillar, gas gauge off by half and so on.

On order. Out out of stock. Gives me time to find some thermally conductive filler material. I was thinking about mixing silicone with copper dust or something.

That is what I was looking for. Funny, they did not show up the other day when I looked. I have never had heated mirrors, so if the performance is slightly low, I would not know the difference! thanks

Just had mine done by them. No complaints. If I knew how cheap this was, I would have been doing my cars for years.

I ran KDW's on my RSX and Civic. Hated them. Wound up with RE 960's on the RSX and Avid H4's on the Civic. Stayed round, worked on a car as light as ours, and pretty good in the damp. Duh, it does rain around here. The KDW's and Dunlop 5000's seemed both to be for heavier cars. Can't say I am impressed with the Continental run-flats I have. Guess I need to see what it takes to retrofit a mini-spare and go back to conventional tires.

Run them for years in my other cars and will probably get one for this. Testing suggests slightly more restrictive than a brand new clean paper one, but they stay better longer not being as restrictive as a dirty paper one. Also, testing suggests they filter better. Of course, there is a LOT of differences in paper elements.

Guess nobody went, no comments on the forum. Whatever.

Downpour. Not the time for a 100 mile trip around the beltway! Maybe next time.

With only 400 miles on my car, I notice why black wheels seem to be popular. The petal is also a lot touchier than I am used to, so I was considering Hawk HPS for the fronts at least. I love them on my RSX ( with power-slots) HPS take a little more petal but do give better modulation when you are really on them. Aren't greens a bit hard for street use?

Excellent. Much thanks. Yea, I might take a trip over to Sterling. Long haul as I am in Bowie, but I meet for breakfast in Gaithersburg every Saturday with what used to be the TVR club, now it is just a bunch of old-timers who used to have TVR's.

I am looking for a convex left side mirror to reduce blind spots. Has anyone looked into bringing over mirrors from GB? Yes, I am sure they are ilegal, but I put safety over stupid DoT rules anyday. Little stick-ons don't cut it.