cmcveay

I'm curious as to how many in the DCMM community would be interested in getting together for an ECU tune by Jan from RMW. Jan tunes for 1st and 2nd Gen MINI's and I can't think of a single negative post on NAM about the work that's done. The latest I've seen is a possible tune day at Helix in Philly and I'm considering going up there for this. http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/drivetrain-cooper-s/182106-rmw-tuning-day-at-helix-in-philly-mar-apr-10-a.html If enough people are interested, maybe we can approach Dan at MACH V (they have a chassis dyno in the shop) and see if we can "steal" a Saturday or Sunday to have a group of us in for this. It beats driving to Philly so if we can pull it together, I'll pay for the coffee and doughnuts! I don't know how to set up an RSVP to track interest so if Haemish is reading this and you can tell me how (you back from Uganda yet?). Otherwise, PM me or email me and I'll keep a running list. Lots of threads on NAM about the quality of work and the HP/TQ gains from the procedure. Not much about it on their website though. http://www.revolutionmini.com/ If we can get a 1/2 dozen cars onboard for this, we might be able to get Jan to come out and take us to the next level... Before the Dragon! Thanks, Craig

Jason, You still have these? I can't cough up that kind of cash since the state of VA wants an arm and a leg for state taxes this year but I am interested. Wonder if I could get 'em powdercoated black???? Thanks, Craig

Can't wait to see the pics with the tint. I've not regretted having that done - not once since then. In the summer time, it kept the car cooler from a comfort perspective and aesthetically, it's really, really cool!

That's what I got from reading the link and doing a little research on it. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks for the reply!

Okay, I'll show my lack of knowledge as I know there are others that are just dying to ask. What kind of problems are going on to require this or, is it something that just makes driving our MINI's that much better?

:top: At least it's "stealthed"!

I was there for a little while too! We should have gotten together out there. There were far too many Subies in the parking lot. It was interesting to see how many were from MD and still had their radar detectors hanging on the windshield though.

Yeah, I got rid of the run-flats and went with good all-season tires and between yesterday and today, they did fine. I made it a point to stay away from summer tires just for that reason. I got here late last winter and had a steep learning curve in the VW. The windows thing was kind of new, never had that happen before, even when I lived in the snow belt many, many moons ago....

Okay, I'll admit it, I'm not all that familiar with ice but I do have an ice scraper. After 14yrs in San Diego, 3 years on Hawaii and a year in Cuba, I'm learning all sorts of new weather issues!

This is my first "MINI Winter" so I'll come across things that I haven't dealt with. The Novelty of the "snow flake" warning is wearing off and I have to wonder if BMW/MINI thinks we are all so dumb, we don't know when it's cold outside. I've got news for them.... My aging joints and bones tells me long before the annoying "bonging" and little snow flake... This morning was our first morning at/below freezing. As I was pulling out of the parking lot headed to work just before daylight, I reached over to run my windows down to knock the moisture off and I got nothing. Not even a budge. After the second try, I got the "bonging" warning and there's a little window icon on the tach and the triangle w/ exclamation point... By the time I got to work, the windows were going up and down as designed. Is this really something that I have to look forward to? Windows that will actually freeze in the up position whenever it's rained and then drops below freezing? Anyone else with any experience like this? It kind of scared the heck out of me because when it it happened on my VW, it cost over $400 to replace the window regulators! More on friends, motor on!

:congrats:

Heading out to Bob Evan's for breakfast if anyone is getting up this way early! It's less than a mile to the meet up if you are hungry.

I'll have a pair of radios that will allow you to listen but not xmit as they don't have the option for the privacy codes. If anyone needs to use one, track us down.

Jason, you and redmini should get together! They can drive you in your Clubman!

You are doing an awesome job with what you've got going and all of the great idea will be just as good next year for the 2nd annual event. I think we were able to "sell" the event to a few of our cousins from down South there with HRMINI as well. They

Hurray for the updated details and Hurray for an event that starts/stops in NOVA! Hurray, Hurray!

Too bad we can't arrange to have them on the beltway next month!

Good to know! I was going to do the same after my drive home this evening since the forcast looks kind of "moist" through the weekend. I have noticed that my scoop no longer had that slight deformation (dip in the center) that it did before. I'm hoping that it's a combination of cooling air flow and decreased underhood temps. I'm also hoping the new down pipe will help underhood temps. the coated pipe is supposed to help cut down on the radiated heat coming out of the turbo and into the exhaust.... Adam "suggested" my pipe would be shipping in the next couple of weeks.

Don't wanna miss a run! Be nice to take KOOPER back to the place I picked him up. His first trip back to the "nursery"...

Rack, There's a pretty extensive thread on the Gen 2 hoodscoop concerns over on NAM. You'll read lots of people that have had the problem, lots of people that haven't had the problem; posts that state there are only two kinds of hood scoops on the 2nd Gen "those that have melted and those that are going to melt" and lots of stories about dealers and different answers. I noticed my had begun to develop a "dip" in the rear center and I decided to remove the scoop and I then managed to turn it into a "functional" scoop by removing the airflow restriction plate. It's been almost two months since I did that with some hard driving, some hot days and I've seen no ill side effects. I'm going to either replace the restriction device or devise some gizmo that will deflect the incoming are away from my CAI as we get into the wet winter months as I'd rather not drown the air filter at highway speeds in a downpour. Oh, most of the posts involving positive dealer experiences in the thread on NAM do ultimately mention MINI offering the CF JCW scoop as a replacement or at a discount. Link to the NAM Thread Enjoy, Craig

I was able to find a gloss black license plate frame at Pep Boys. Seems like it was about $14. For the rear, I sprayed my MoS frame with plastidip and I finally got around to putting it on this past weekend.

That's right, I forgot about that. Can't wait to see it though!

My headlight rings and grill surround are both holding up but I've only been to about 95 since I painted 'em. They've also been through three pressure washes. I don't get right up next to that part, I keep it back a foot or two but no problems yet. I've still got the tape on the belt line trim though. Your pictures of the car all taped off did crack me up though. I think the time it would take to remove the headlight trim and upper/lower grill would be wayyyyyy less than the time it took to mask them off That's why we all try different things though, we learn from it.

please say counter, please say counter, please say counter.... (that's the little voice inside my head - and no, I'm not a NASCAR fan)....

At the request of miniMUM, I'll post this info in a new thread so we don't hijack the 2010 HK thread. This only applies to the 2nd Gen gang, the 1st Gen folks are able to swap out head units so you aren't tied to the fully integrated unit. I don't remember if this also applies to the 2nd Gen cars with the NAV system but the 17+ pages of the thread on NAM will answer that question. I did this mod last Saturday (in the rain) and it took about 20 minutes and cost nothing more than the time. I'm no audiophile but I do like the improvement of the audio quality so, for me, it was a very worthy mod considering the time and expense. Here's a link to the long and very detailed How To on NAM to do this. I'll cut and paste a couple of pieces of information to give you an idea of the work. It involved removing two interior panels (no tools needed for removal) to gain access to the connector and then some patience to do the work. Don't be intimidated when the posts go into details about molex tools and brass pipes and dremel tools. At the end of the thread, you'll find that you can do this without all of that. I used 4 toothpics and a pair of needlenose pliers. The pliers came in hand to put the panels back in. If anyone would like to hear the difference, I live in Annandale and I work at the Navy Annex (near the Pentagon) and you are welcome to come hear it. If you'd like to jump into the mod and would like one on one assistance, give me a shout, I don't mind helping. By the way, I followed the pin-to-pin part below, not the colors as it is far faster to do that (for me). Front/Rear Channel Swap How-To What you will do - by wire color/pin number: FR = front right FL = front left RR - rear right RL = rear left ORIGINAL SWAPPED sig color what pin sig color what TTHL- BL/SW RL- 2 MTVL- SW/VI FL- MTVR+ GE/BR FR+ 3 TTHR+ BR/OR RR+ MTVR- GE/SW FR- 4 TTHR- GE/RT RR- MTVL+ SW/RT FL+ 5 TTHL+ BL/BR RL+ MTVL- SW/VI FL- 6 TTHL- BL/SW RL- TTHR+ BR/OR RR+ 7 MTVR+ GE/BR FR+ TTHR- GE/RT RR- 8 MTVR- GE/SW FR- TTHL+ BL/BR RL+ 10 MTVL+ SW/RT FL+ Colors: SW black BR brown RT red OR orange GE yellow VI violet What you'll do (by pin number): 2 --> 6 6 --> 2 3 --> 7 7 --> 3 4 --> 8 8 --> 4 5 --> 10 10 --> 5 Enjoy, for the money/time this takes, I feel it's very much worth it. Craig:rock: