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Highpoint1

2008 R56 S overheating

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Posted

Hello all--

 

New here, with a problem. Last Friday, my 2008 MCS overheated (ironically, just as I was taking my significant other to a rental place to pick up a car she needed for a work trip). I had AAA take my car home, and now that she's cooled off, I can see that, at a minimum, I need to add coolant.

 

However, I've been Googling, and the number of possible problems that could have caused this situation seems mind-boggling (thermostat housing? thermostat itself? bubble in the cooling system? head gasket? OMG HEAD GASKET THE ALUMINUM HEADS ARE WARPED THE CAR IS TRASH...all this and more has flown across my screen and through my mind).

 

The car has seemed to have a very slight coolant leak for a few months, and I've just kept it topped off. Obviously not enough.

 

Any suggestions on what might be wrong and suggestions for what I should do now would be most appreciated. Also, are there any independent mechanics or shops in the Arlington/Alexandria area? I ask because PMOA seems VERY expensive to me.

 

Thanks in advance.

Posted

Well honestly you won't know without looking. Check the expansion tank at the back of the engine bay for leaks. Do you have an idea of where the leak is spacially? Drivers side? Pass side? Front or back of the engine bay? It's likely something simple. Warped head is far less likely unless you really ran it hot. If you pulled over right away you should be fine. Check the oil and make sure it's not foamy (coolant in oil). Worst case any competent shop should be able to do a leak down check. Where are you located if you have a driveway I can narrow it down for you.

Posted

check the rediator cap...if that goes bad the system wont hold pressure and will over heat...start simple and work your way up

HOONIGAN

Manic stage 2+, H&R springs, H-Sport 19mm sway bar, K&N intake, Forge Bov, Miltek downpipe, Mini Challenge Exhaust, Alta hotside pipe, Noname Intercooler, Cravenspeed short shifter, Sneed4speed Billyclub, Sneed4speed Aero Package, Sneed4speed

ETR, Sneed4speed track rotors, Carbontech AX6 brake pads

Posted
Well honestly you won't know without looking. Check the expansion tank at the back of the engine bay for leaks. Do you have an idea of where the leak is spacially? Drivers side? Pass side? Front or back of the engine bay? It's likely something simple. Warped head is far less likely unless you really ran it hot. If you pulled over right away you should be fine. Check the oil and make sure it's not foamy (coolant in oil). Worst case any competent shop should be able to do a leak down check. Where are you located if you have a driveway I can narrow it down for you.

 

Check the expansion tank at the back of the engine bay for leaks.

 

At the BACK of the engine bay? I wasn't aware that there is an expansion tank there. On my R56, there's an expansion tank (at least I think that's what it is) in the front, directly under the bonnet latch. But I'll look for another tank as soon as I can (I'm at work right now).

 

Do you have an idea of where the leak is spacially? Drivers side? Pass side? Front or back of the engine bay?

 

I'm afraid I don't have any idea. I've looked for leaks, but being something of a mechanical neophyte/moron, not only do I not know what I'm looking at, I haven't seen anything that would, to someone of my mean intelligence, resemble a leak: fluid streaming or dripping or collecting anywhere.

 

Check the oil and make sure it's not foamy (coolant in oil).

 

Would it still be foamy if the car hasn't been run in a few days?

 

Where are you located if you have a driveway I can narrow it down for you.

 

Thank you SO much for your very kind offer. I live where Arlington and Fairfax meet--sort of near Skyline City, if you know where that is--but I live in an apartment complex and my Mini sits outside in the parking lot.

Posted
check the rediator cap...if that goes bad the system wont hold pressure and will over heat...start simple and work your way up

 

Thank you...I will try that. Do you mean the cap on the front expansion tank, or is there another pressure cap elsewhere?

 

Sorry for such dumb questions.

Posted

Whoops on an r56 it's on the front left side (drivers) of the bay. He is talking about the cap on this tank. It's a sealed system and must hold pressure to avoid boil over

Posted

Add coolant and get any air out of the system. Open up the bleed screw and top off till it starts to come out. Close screw and let it run a bit. Keep your eyes on the temp gauge, If it starts to climb shut it down. I believe on an r56 the screw is on the top of the tstat. If everything goes good start looking for leaks.

Posted

2008 R56, thermostat is molded into the housing and tends to go bad. the whole thing housing with thermostat has to be replace.

 

It is one of those right of passage fixes on a Gen2, like timing chain, and water pump.

 

I would say there is a 90 percent chance that is what it is. Who many miles?

1975Mini001.jpg

1975 Mini 1000, 998cc A+ w/ K&N air filter, 10" Mamba wheels

Posted
2008 R56, thermostat is molded into the housing and tends to go bad. the whole thing housing with thermostat has to be replace.

 

It is one of those right of passage fixes on a Gen2, like timing chain, and water pump.

 

I would say there is a 90 percent chance that is what it is. Who many miles?

 

Just over 62,000 miles.

Posted

All right, so today I checked the coolant level (after having topped off but not bled [since I'm not sure I know how]), and it was down somewhat. There is a wet spot under the front, which seems to be coming from the center of the engine bay. Laying on the ground, I saw a single drop of fluid coming from the cylindrical object in my photo, but I don't know if its coming from that or somewhere else. Sorry to be so vague and inept, and thanks enormously for all the help so far.

 

281x0uc.jpg

Posted

Just an update in case anyone is curious: I had my car towed to Liberty Auto on N. Henry Street in Old Town, where David Rockwell told me that both the water pump and thermostat were shot. He replaced both, as well as the serpentine belt, which was apparently somewhat cracked and needed to be removed anyway (I think). He also pointed out that I should have my valve cover replaced soon and that my car will require brake work in the not too distant future (and that it's due for new spark plugs), but I opted to defer those items for the moment, as even with the shop's generous DCMM discount, the total for all of that is quite daunting.

 

I picked up Emma (the MCS) yesterday and drove her home with no problems, but I admit I'm pretty nervous about the future; that she's awfully fragile and terribly expensive. Are there any reasons that (a) I should be nervous now, about the valve cover or any internal damage to the engine from the overheating incident (I should note that David said that the oil didn't seem to have any coolant contamination, which was a relief), or (b) I should start thinking about other major potential problems down the road, and/or begin to think about replacing the car?

 

Thanks again for all the help and support.

Posted

Spark plugs and brakes are extremely easy do it yourself task that most of the group can help with for cost and a six pack of beer

 

Valve cover? If they are saying the whole cover needs to be replaced that means you likely have a leak at the vacuum hose, left rear, again very easy do it yourself

 

Cost of these parts are not to bad other than the Valve cover.

1975Mini001.jpg

1975 Mini 1000, 998cc A+ w/ K&N air filter, 10" Mamba wheels

Posted

I highly recommend an extended warranty it has saved me a ton, had to have my transmission replaced recently and could have bought my car again for what it would have cost me but my warranty took care of it no questions asked

http://www.dcmetrominis.org/forums/image.php?u=1132&type=sigpic&dateline=1367319111

Posted
Spark plugs and brakes are extremely easy do it yourself task that most of the group can help with for cost and a six pack of beer

 

Valve cover? If they are saying the whole cover needs to be replaced that means you likely have a leak at the vacuum hose, left rear, again very easy do it yourself

 

Cost of these parts are not to bad other than the Valve cover.

 

Corey, thank you very much. I think that the diy-with-help route will be the way I go for these items.

Posted
I highly recommend an extended warranty it has saved me a ton, had to have my transmission replaced recently and could have bought my car again for what it would have cost me but my warranty took care of it no questions asked

 

Thank you very much, Brandy. Is your warranty from MINI or one of the aftermarket/third-party type places? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Posted
I highly recommend an extended warranty it has saved me a ton, had to have my transmission replaced recently and could have bought my car again for what it would have cost me but my warranty took care of it no questions asked

 

I agree with Brandy, it's worth the money. Mine was the AAA Platinum and it was amazing, I made thousands over the cost of the warranty. You can use it at Liberty also. I now have the USAA one on my Mazda and I hear it's a great warranty but the Mazda hasn't had any issues so I haven't had to use it. Tigger is over 100k miles now so the warranties are just too pricey to extend. I'm going rogue and bought a commuter car.

Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman

Tggrrr010.jpg

Posted

Mine is through USAA, I bought mine used and not from a MINI dealer. I paid 2600 bucks and it covers almost everything for 3 years or 115,000 miles which she will probably hit before the three years

 

 

Thank you very much, Brandy. Is your warranty from MINI or one of the aftermarket/third-party type places? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

http://www.dcmetrominis.org/forums/image.php?u=1132&type=sigpic&dateline=1367319111

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