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bobesser

Suspension swap

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I am prepping for a suspension swap (springs/shocks/sway bars). I have done this on other cars with only minor issues. It looks a bit more involved due to needing to lower the subframes for the swaybars. Also, I don't have the special socket needed to screw on the front strut top nut.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

The car is an '09 JCW. Parts are: JCW springs and bars plus Koni Yellow shocks.

 

Bob

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I am prepping for a suspension swap (springs/shocks/sway bars). I have done this on other cars with only minor issues. It looks a bit more involved due to needing to lower the subframes for the swaybars. Also, I don't have the special socket needed to screw on the front strut top nut.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

The car is an '09 JCW. Parts are: JCW springs and bars plus Koni Yellow shocks.

 

Bob

 

For the rear swat bat you don't need to drop the sub frame just take one of the shocks out and slide it out.

STella- 14' Focus ST Roush CAI, Cobb access port stage1 tune, custom Ptuning 3" exhuast, Levels FMIC, Turbosmart BOV, rally armor mud flaps, more to come.

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I've done a few of these things, and I don't see how you'd do the rear without lowering (maybe not totally unbolting the subframe). I'd pass on the front bar anyway.

 

You will also have to drill out the rear spring hats to 12mm so the Koni's will fit through.

 

Also you need a way to get the front strut out of the spindle. It's not as easy as the write up seems.

No matter where you go, there you are!

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I've done a few of these things, and I don't see how you'd do the rear without lowering (maybe not totally unbolting the subframe). I'd pass on the front bar anyway.

 

You will also have to drill out the rear spring hats to 12mm so the Koni's will fit through.

 

Also you need a way to get the front strut out of the spindle. It's not as easy as the write up seems.

 

I was aware of needing to drill out the rear hats. How hard is it to get the struts out of the spindle?

 

Need to do the front bar for D-Stock compliance.

 

Bob

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To get the sway bar out/in you do need to loosen - almost to the point of removing - the rear subframe bolts on one side of the car.

 

The top bolt on the front struts is best done with a standard spark plug wrench and a hex key. With that set up, you can put a standard wrench on the socket to turn the nut while the spindle is held with the hex key.

 

Getting the front struts out of the spindle can be a real PITA but it's not impossible. One little secret is that the spindle(s) will "rotate" forward to let the bottom of the strut come out.

 

After having done a 1/2 dozen or so suspension swaps, it's really not that hard.

 

I've got the wrench and spring compressors if you need them - it beats buying more.

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer"

2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold

2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold

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To get the front strut out, I use a piece of wood (1x1xabout 3') between the bottom of the spring mount on the strut and the ground and then lower the lift. First soak the part where the strut goes into the spindle with AiroKroil or other penatrating oil.

 

For the rear bar, I just remove the rearmost subframe bolts, and loosen the front. It makes the job way easier. And if I read the rules correctly, you can modify, or replace a SINGLE anti roll bar. http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012_Solo_Rules_May.pdf Rule 13.7A.

 

Anyway, If you want to come out here to Eldersburg, you can use my lift and tools. (heated garage a bonus...lol)

No matter where you go, there you are!

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To get the front strut out, I use a piece of wood (1x1xabout 3') between the bottom of the spring mount on the strut and the ground and then lower the lift. First soak the part where the strut goes into the spindle with AiroKroil or other penatrating oil.

 

For the rear bar, I just remove the rearmost subframe bolts, and loosen the front. It makes the job way easier. And if I read the rules correctly, you can modify, or replace a SINGLE anti roll bar. http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012_Solo_Rules_May.pdf Rule 13.7A.

 

Anyway, If you want to come out here to Eldersburg, you can use my lift and tools. (heated garage a bonus...lol)

 

OH MAN! I did the front bar on Sunday and what a pain it was. Six full hours of work using a lift and having help. Regarding the rules, "Port installed" is allowed in stock class, so, I am upgrading to the JCW suspension. The problem is, to remain stock, I have to have the *whole* JCW suspension and then I can swap one bar. So, I am putting on the JCW front swaybar (done), the JCW springs, Koni FSD shocks (<- just decided since it is still a daily driver) and a H-Sport competition rear bar.

 

Thanks for the offers of help. I will definitely be calling on some help when the shocks arrive.

 

Craig, When can I borrow your tools?

 

Attached photo is my car after the swap and the Spec Racer Ford that I got to drive around the cul-de-sac after the work was done.

photo.jpg.1f0a86f1bffbc1bc8106030bbb0fcfaa.jpg

photo.jpg.1f0a86f1bffbc1bc8106030bbb0fcfaa.jpg

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The JCW springs do not have much of a drop, so, no victory pictures.
The full JCW suspension (including JCW shocks) is about a 1 inch drop. Also, note that the JCW suspension is sold with different spring rates depending on the factory options on your car. I think there's actually 4 variants for each model that the JCW suspension is "officially" available for, and which one you get when ordering through a dealer, again, depends on the options your car has.

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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If the Koni FSD is anything like the Sport, it may take a few days to settle, in my Miata-based experience.

quirk - '12 CR MCS 6m, WP, MR, HK. Conti DWS, Kosei K4R, Hardened NM TA insert, NM strut bar, Rennline skidplate, WMW heat shield, Philips X-treme, OEM Lumbars, mudflaps & black trim, free camber mod, WeatherTech mats, RearGuard...

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The full JCW suspension (including JCW shocks) is about a 1 inch drop. Also, note that the JCW suspension is sold with different spring rates depending on the factory options on your car. I think there's actually 4 variants for each model that the JCW suspension is "officially" available for, and which one you get when ordering through a dealer, again, depends on the options your car has.

 

If the Koni FSD is anything like the Sport, it may take a few days to settle, in my Miata-based experience.

 

My research shows the JCW suspension gives a 10 mm drop (per ECS Tuning site and others). I worked with their MINI parts guy and we got the correct set. As understand, the four different variants correspond to the iterations of with/without sunroof and with/without auto trans.

 

I will post pics in a week to see if anyone notices any drop on the height. So far, the FSDs are *much* smoother than stock 'S' suspension (not even sport).

 

Bob

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I thought with the fsd's you couldn't do lowering springs

 

Best that I can tell, the FSDs are 'not for aftermarket lowering springs.' This would be something like Eibachs or TSWs or some springs that lower 1-2 inches. The JCW springs are 'factory' and should be okay - much the same way that the Mazdaspeed3 has springs that are shorted than the regular Mazda 3. Remember that the factory can't lower a car too much or it runs afoul of federal height regulations.

 

Bob

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Best that I can tell, the FSDs are 'not for aftermarket lowering springs.' This would be something like Eibachs or TSWs or some springs that lower 1-2 inches. The JCW springs are 'factory' and should be okay - much the same way that the Mazdaspeed3 has springs that are shorted than the regular Mazda 3. Remember that the factory can't lower a car too much or it runs afoul of federal height regulations.

 

Bob

 

Makes sense

STella- 14' Focus ST Roush CAI, Cobb access port stage1 tune, custom Ptuning 3" exhuast, Levels FMIC, Turbosmart BOV, rally armor mud flaps, more to come.

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The full JCW suspension (including JCW shocks) is about a 1 inch drop. Also, note that the JCW suspension is sold with different spring rates depending on the factory options on your car. I think there's actually 4 variants for each model that the JCW suspension is "officially" available for, and which one you get when ordering through a dealer, again, depends on the options your car has.
My research shows the JCW suspension gives a 10 mm drop (per ECS Tuning site and others). I worked with their MINI parts guy and we got the correct set. As understand, the four different variants correspond to the iterations of with/without sunroof and with/without auto trans.

 

I will post pics in a week to see if anyone notices any drop on the height. So far, the FSDs are *much* smoother than stock 'S' suspension (not even sport).

You are correct - my mistake! I think I got confused between 1 inch and 1 cm (which is 10mm). :angel:

"Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR.

License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129

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