bobesser Posted December 29, 2012 Report Posted December 29, 2012 I am prepping for a suspension swap (springs/shocks/sway bars). I have done this on other cars with only minor issues. It looks a bit more involved due to needing to lower the subframes for the swaybars. Also, I don't have the special socket needed to screw on the front strut top nut. Any advice greatly appreciated. The car is an '09 JCW. Parts are: JCW springs and bars plus Koni Yellow shocks. Bob
minime331 Posted December 29, 2012 Report Posted December 29, 2012 I am prepping for a suspension swap (springs/shocks/sway bars). I have done this on other cars with only minor issues. It looks a bit more involved due to needing to lower the subframes for the swaybars. Also, I don't have the special socket needed to screw on the front strut top nut. Any advice greatly appreciated. The car is an '09 JCW. Parts are: JCW springs and bars plus Koni Yellow shocks. Bob For the rear swat bat you don't need to drop the sub frame just take one of the shocks out and slide it out. STella- 14' Focus ST Roush CAI, Cobb access port stage1 tune, custom Ptuning 3" exhuast, Levels FMIC, Turbosmart BOV, rally armor mud flaps, more to come.
bobesser Posted December 30, 2012 Author Report Posted December 30, 2012 For the rear swat bat you don't need to drop the sub frame just take one of the shocks out and slide it out. Glad to hear. I had just looked over this: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/how-to/230072-suspension-install-rear-sway-bar-56k-beware.html and was concerned. Bob
RichSperry Posted January 1, 2013 Report Posted January 1, 2013 I've done a few of these things, and I don't see how you'd do the rear without lowering (maybe not totally unbolting the subframe). I'd pass on the front bar anyway. You will also have to drill out the rear spring hats to 12mm so the Koni's will fit through. Also you need a way to get the front strut out of the spindle. It's not as easy as the write up seems. No matter where you go, there you are!
bobesser Posted January 1, 2013 Author Report Posted January 1, 2013 I've done a few of these things, and I don't see how you'd do the rear without lowering (maybe not totally unbolting the subframe). I'd pass on the front bar anyway. You will also have to drill out the rear spring hats to 12mm so the Koni's will fit through. Also you need a way to get the front strut out of the spindle. It's not as easy as the write up seems. I was aware of needing to drill out the rear hats. How hard is it to get the struts out of the spindle? Need to do the front bar for D-Stock compliance. Bob
cmcveay Posted January 1, 2013 Report Posted January 1, 2013 To get the sway bar out/in you do need to loosen - almost to the point of removing - the rear subframe bolts on one side of the car. The top bolt on the front struts is best done with a standard spark plug wrench and a hex key. With that set up, you can put a standard wrench on the socket to turn the nut while the spindle is held with the hex key. Getting the front struts out of the spindle can be a real PITA but it's not impossible. One little secret is that the spindle(s) will "rotate" forward to let the bottom of the strut come out. After having done a 1/2 dozen or so suspension swaps, it's really not that hard. I've got the wrench and spring compressors if you need them - it beats buying more. 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer" 2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold 2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold
68wmcs Posted January 1, 2013 Report Posted January 1, 2013 Just as Craig said, I'd also be willing to lend a helping hand. 03 BRG MINI S: Sold! 05 PW Scion xB: D2 Coilovers, XXR 531 16x8, Yakima rack, Yakima basket, WINK, Plaid interior, and a whopping 108 HP!
RichSperry Posted January 2, 2013 Report Posted January 2, 2013 To get the front strut out, I use a piece of wood (1x1xabout 3') between the bottom of the spring mount on the strut and the ground and then lower the lift. First soak the part where the strut goes into the spindle with AiroKroil or other penatrating oil. For the rear bar, I just remove the rearmost subframe bolts, and loosen the front. It makes the job way easier. And if I read the rules correctly, you can modify, or replace a SINGLE anti roll bar. http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012_Solo_Rules_May.pdf Rule 13.7A. Anyway, If you want to come out here to Eldersburg, you can use my lift and tools. (heated garage a bonus...lol) No matter where you go, there you are!
bobesser Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Posted January 7, 2013 To get the front strut out, I use a piece of wood (1x1xabout 3') between the bottom of the spring mount on the strut and the ground and then lower the lift. First soak the part where the strut goes into the spindle with AiroKroil or other penatrating oil. For the rear bar, I just remove the rearmost subframe bolts, and loosen the front. It makes the job way easier. And if I read the rules correctly, you can modify, or replace a SINGLE anti roll bar. http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012_Solo_Rules_May.pdf Rule 13.7A. Anyway, If you want to come out here to Eldersburg, you can use my lift and tools. (heated garage a bonus...lol) OH MAN! I did the front bar on Sunday and what a pain it was. Six full hours of work using a lift and having help. Regarding the rules, "Port installed" is allowed in stock class, so, I am upgrading to the JCW suspension. The problem is, to remain stock, I have to have the *whole* JCW suspension and then I can swap one bar. So, I am putting on the JCW front swaybar (done), the JCW springs, Koni FSD shocks (<- just decided since it is still a daily driver) and a H-Sport competition rear bar. Thanks for the offers of help. I will definitely be calling on some help when the shocks arrive. Craig, When can I borrow your tools? Attached photo is my car after the swap and the Spec Racer Ford that I got to drive around the cul-de-sac after the work was done.
bobesser Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Posted January 13, 2013 With much thanks to Lona and Craig and their hospitality and the use of the Garage Mahal, I was able to do the springs and shocks this morning. The JCW springs do not have much of a drop, so, no victory pictures. Thanks!!! Bob
smoke789 Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 I'm glad everything worked out for you, Bob. We enjoyed your company this morning.
Edge Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 The JCW springs do not have much of a drop, so, no victory pictures.The full JCW suspension (including JCW shocks) is about a 1 inch drop. Also, note that the JCW suspension is sold with different spring rates depending on the factory options on your car. I think there's actually 4 variants for each model that the JCW suspension is "officially" available for, and which one you get when ordering through a dealer, again, depends on the options your car has. "Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR. License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129
OhBe1 Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 If the Koni FSD is anything like the Sport, it may take a few days to settle, in my Miata-based experience. quirk - '12 CR MCS 6m, WP, MR, HK. Conti DWS, Kosei K4R, Hardened NM TA insert, NM strut bar, Rennline skidplate, WMW heat shield, Philips X-treme, OEM Lumbars, mudflaps & black trim, free camber mod, WeatherTech mats, RearGuard...
bobesser Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Posted January 13, 2013 The full JCW suspension (including JCW shocks) is about a 1 inch drop. Also, note that the JCW suspension is sold with different spring rates depending on the factory options on your car. I think there's actually 4 variants for each model that the JCW suspension is "officially" available for, and which one you get when ordering through a dealer, again, depends on the options your car has. If the Koni FSD is anything like the Sport, it may take a few days to settle, in my Miata-based experience. My research shows the JCW suspension gives a 10 mm drop (per ECS Tuning site and others). I worked with their MINI parts guy and we got the correct set. As understand, the four different variants correspond to the iterations of with/without sunroof and with/without auto trans. I will post pics in a week to see if anyone notices any drop on the height. So far, the FSDs are *much* smoother than stock 'S' suspension (not even sport). Bob
minime331 Posted January 14, 2013 Report Posted January 14, 2013 I thought with the fsd's you couldn't do lowering springs STella- 14' Focus ST Roush CAI, Cobb access port stage1 tune, custom Ptuning 3" exhuast, Levels FMIC, Turbosmart BOV, rally armor mud flaps, more to come.
bobesser Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Posted January 14, 2013 I thought with the fsd's you couldn't do lowering springs Best that I can tell, the FSDs are 'not for aftermarket lowering springs.' This would be something like Eibachs or TSWs or some springs that lower 1-2 inches. The JCW springs are 'factory' and should be okay - much the same way that the Mazdaspeed3 has springs that are shorted than the regular Mazda 3. Remember that the factory can't lower a car too much or it runs afoul of federal height regulations. Bob
minime331 Posted January 14, 2013 Report Posted January 14, 2013 Best that I can tell, the FSDs are 'not for aftermarket lowering springs.' This would be something like Eibachs or TSWs or some springs that lower 1-2 inches. The JCW springs are 'factory' and should be okay - much the same way that the Mazdaspeed3 has springs that are shorted than the regular Mazda 3. Remember that the factory can't lower a car too much or it runs afoul of federal height regulations. Bob Makes sense STella- 14' Focus ST Roush CAI, Cobb access port stage1 tune, custom Ptuning 3" exhuast, Levels FMIC, Turbosmart BOV, rally armor mud flaps, more to come.
Phobix Posted January 15, 2013 Report Posted January 15, 2013 I just completed this job today. let me know if you have any ?s while its still all fresh in my mind =) took me about 5 hours working alone.
Edge Posted January 15, 2013 Report Posted January 15, 2013 The full JCW suspension (including JCW shocks) is about a 1 inch drop. Also, note that the JCW suspension is sold with different spring rates depending on the factory options on your car. I think there's actually 4 variants for each model that the JCW suspension is "officially" available for, and which one you get when ordering through a dealer, again, depends on the options your car has. My research shows the JCW suspension gives a 10 mm drop (per ECS Tuning site and others). I worked with their MINI parts guy and we got the correct set. As understand, the four different variants correspond to the iterations of with/without sunroof and with/without auto trans. I will post pics in a week to see if anyone notices any drop on the height. So far, the FSDs are *much* smoother than stock 'S' suspension (not even sport). You are correct - my mistake! I think I got confused between 1 inch and 1 cm (which is 10mm). :angel: "Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR. License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129