osofast10 Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 i'm in the middle of getting a few quotes but it got me thinking... is this something i can tackle on my own or should i let the pros handle it? also... what is everyone's thought about the 15%? Should i just get the 17% or stay safe with the 15? are the gains that much more noticeable with the 17 over the 15? what are the pros and cons to each? Thanks everyone!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 i'm in the middle of getting a few quotes but it got me thinking... is this something i can tackle on my own or should i let the pros handle it? also... what is everyone's thought about the 15%? Should i just get the 17% or stay safe with the 15? are the gains that much more noticeable with the 17 over the 15? what are the pros and cons to each? Most people have agreed that 15% is the "safe" choice. A very noticeable power gain with minimal concern about wear and tear or breaking things. Some of the more aggressive folks have done the 17% (or even a 19%!) and done a crank pulley swap too... but inevitably they have issues. Remember, any pulley change will also increase the wear on your supercharger, which is not a cheap part to replace. Personally, I say go with the 15%, and maybe intake and exhaust along with it, if you haven't already. Then get a custom dyno tune. As for doing it yourself, that depends entirely on your comfort level. The factory pulley is extremely difficult to get off because it was heat shrunk onto the shaft. Also you'll want the special tool to do this, and buying the tool just for the one job is not cost-effective (over paying someone else who already has the tool and experience). Are you coming to MOTD? This is one of the most common upgrades done on 1st Gen MINIs at MOTD - lots of vendors there who can do it for you. "Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR. License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klwells Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 As stated above, the install should be completely based on how comfortable you are with mechanical things. Its not the easiest thing to do, and it does require a special puller for the pulley and the tensioner tool. With the proper tools, start to finish, taking my time of corse, it was about 4 hours. That included repairing and modifying the belt tensioner. That brings up another thing to consider. You may need some additional parts, and it is strongly recommended to replace the tensioner or at least install a tensioner stop. Many times the tensioner damper is in need of replacement as well. I went with a 17% pulley. Its been on for about 2 years. It went on the car when it had about 130K miles and now it has over 150k miles. So far no problems that are related to the pulley install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R53NERD Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Provide the workspace we can do ours together. I'll rent the tools! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
