cmcveay Posted November 17, 2011 Report Posted November 17, 2011 I will be installing the catch can that I have for two reasons... It can't hurt and, it might help. 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer" 2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold 2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold
CP3657197 Posted November 18, 2011 Report Posted November 18, 2011 cmcveay, thank you, very informative. Definitely will push the rpm up compare to what I've been driving her so far. I also need to come to one of those "Seafoam Party" event and witness the process. At any rate, I started to search the net about this seafoam thing and I found this link (http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/how-to-seafoam-your-car-clean-carbon-buildup) and from what I gather it's quite a process... Again, thx for the explanation and the tid bits regarding the rpm thing... CP
TGGRRR (Ali) Posted November 18, 2011 Report Posted November 18, 2011 cmcveay, thank you, very informative. Definitely will push the rpm up compare to what I've been driving her so far. I also need to come to one of those "Seafoam Party" event and witness the process. At any rate, I started to search the net about this seafoam thing and I found this link (http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/how-to-seafoam-your-car-clean-carbon-buildup) and from what I gather it's quite a process... Again, thx for the explanation and the tid bits regarding the rpm thing... CP It's actually not a big process, but we probably won't do it again until Spring. The can states it needs to be over a certain temp (65? 70?) It takes like 5 mins to pour the Seafoam in, and is easiest with two people since the car will probably stall out. I usually pour in about half the can, but you can toss in the whole can. Then toss the rest into the tank. I read your article, I've always been able to slam the can into the tank, it probably helps that it's half empty. Sometimes it does spill a little out onto the paint, just clean that up. I like to let it sit about 30 minutes, then fire it up, drive and keep the RPMs really high until the smoke is gone. EASY and FUN!! Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman
SbNimble Posted November 18, 2011 Report Posted November 18, 2011 So.... Is Lola home yet? What's the word?
Poison Ivy Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Posted November 18, 2011 I picked her up tonight at 8pm! She sounds good but I haven't really had a chance to check her out. See you all at MoS on Sat!
TGGRRR (Ali) Posted November 18, 2011 Report Posted November 18, 2011 I picked her up tonight at 8pm! She sounds good but I haven't really had a chance to check her out. See you all at MoS on Sat! YAY!!! I won't be at the M&G, but I'll be at the Brunch. Tigger 2006 the cabrio and Riversong the 2014 Countryman
Poison Ivy Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Posted December 6, 2011 Can anyone recommend break pads? Can I buy them at Advance Auto or elsewhere cheaper than the dealership? My dad and brother think they can do it themselves, anyone suggest that they not DIY? I got the warning this am that they are worn to the minimum.
carman63 Posted December 6, 2011 Report Posted December 6, 2011 Mach V sells them, I believe. And I'm pretty sure Craig and a few other folks have done brake jobs on their MINIs.
cmcveay Posted December 6, 2011 Report Posted December 6, 2011 Can anyone recommend break pads? Can I buy them at Advance Auto or elsewhere cheaper than the dealership? My dad and brother think they can do it themselves, anyone suggest that they not DIY? I got the warning this am that they are worn to the minimum. Catalina, Take a look at the Hawk brake pads for sure! They do have a couple of different types and since you aren't going to take Lola to the track and you probably won't autocross more than a couple of times a year, you don't have to get into the high end pads. Give Dan at Mach V a call and he'll probably have them in stock. Make sure to ask about the version that will allow use of the OEM brake wear sensors. The Hawk ceramic pads are very low dust and work really, really well in all conditions. I don't remember which model it is but some of them will also allow you to use the OEM brake wear sensors (replace those with the pads). The sensors are located on the front left and right rear brake assemblies. As far as a DIY? It's pretty darn easy. You will need a tool that compresses AND turns the calipers as you prep them for the new pads. Also, don't forget to keep an eye on the brake master cylinder as you'll start pushing brake fluid back out as you compress the calipers and that can make a mess. Otherwise, it's not too hard. 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer" 2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold 2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold
RichSperry Posted December 6, 2011 Report Posted December 6, 2011 Just a quick couple of things. Yes changing BRAKE pads is pretty easy, but you do need a couple of tools. You can rent the rear brake compressor from some autoparts stores. (AutoZone is one). Basically you pay a deposit that equals the cost of the tool, you get the deposit back when you return the tool. You need a big "C" clamp or I use a big "C" visegrip on the front pistons. If you have the brake pad warning, you need new sensors. And the rotors are probably going to need to be replaced. BMW/MINI really does design them to be consumable and intend that they be replaced. They can last through about 2 sets of pads, but I've found that if you can feel a significant lip, they are probably done for. You can't turn them on a brake lathe and have them be above minimum thickness. You just replace them. As for brake pads, everybody has an opinion. The stock brake pads work really well, have very good initial bite, (start stopping the car right when you start pushing the pedal), but dust a lot. They aren't good for very long on a track. Autocross ISN"T anything like a track, any brakes will last... Most brake pads will accommodate the wear sensors. Hake HP ceramic, Porterfield R4s, Akabono, Axxis Ultimate, Cool Willys, EBC green .. all will work, it will come down to personal preference. No matter where you go, there you are!
