BigDog Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 This has probably been addressed before, but does anyone know of a remote starter solution? I just bought a 2011 Countryman and i am wanting to install one. Also, looking to see if someone has had a sub enclosure installed? Thanks, Oreo:tongue: '11 MCS Countryman "Oreo" R60 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmcveay Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I looked into it briefly a while back. Check Viper, I seem to recall they offered a remote start for BMW/MINI. Also, check your local laws about it. Lots of places have made it an infraction to leave an unattended vehicle running. 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon "Homer" 2012 MB/CR JCW R55 "Merlin" Sold 2009 LB/LB R56 "Archie" Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDog Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Thanks, they are pretty common here in No MD. I just can't seem to find a straight answer on the subject from any car audio install place. Again Thanks '11 MCS Countryman "Oreo" R60 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErinKC Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 So, have we figured out if you can do this on the cars with the key fobs? On NAM I'm reading that MINI itself is saying no go bc it needs the key fob to communicate with. But, that there is a work around and that will void the warranty. I mean, I know I'm a wimp, but I don't like having to drive right out to work before Tycoon is warmed up. I feel bad for the girl. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 So, have we figured out if you can do this on the cars with the key fobs? On NAM I'm reading that MINI itself is saying no go bc it needs the key fob to communicate with. But, that there is a work around and that will void the warranty. I mean, I know I'm a wimp, but I don't like having to drive right out to work before Tycoon is warmed up. I feel bad for the girl.All new MINIs have the same issue, because they are all chipped. In order for an aftermarket remote start system to work, there would have to be a sacrificial key always kept near the ignition so the car saw the chip and allowed the engine to start. Doing so of course would make your car much easier to steal, and having a running engine in an empty car is more tempting to thieves. Proper remote start systems won't let the car be driven until you bring the key, but that is of course defeated with the key fob chip always being there. To add to that, anyone with a 2nd Gen and the Comfort Access system would not be able to lock their car properly because the chip is always there to allow the car to be unlocked. So doing remote start in a MINI is quite a challenge, unfortunately one that I don't think will be overcome properly & easily until MINI designs it in as a factory option. How do I know about this stuff? I had my Mustang set up with remote start as part of a high-end fancy alarm system in the late 90s. I could even page my car, using a special pager module that was programmed to the same identifier as my pager (remember those days? hehe). As for driving your car when it's cold, I've heard a contrasting opinion to the "warm the car up before you drive" concept. Simply that running the engine may warm the engine, but it does not warm up the rest of the car (transmission, brakes, etc). The opposing thought process is to just get in your car and drive... but drive very calmly & gently until the engine is warmed up. By then, the whole car should be warmed up along with it. Just get in and go but take it very easy - no aggressive maneuvering/acceleration/braking until the warm up period is over. It makes sense to me! "Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR. License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErinKC Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Yeah, that is pretty much the same end I have come to. I drive her gingerly in the morning to work as it's not that far and I know she isn't properly warmed up even by the time I get there. I did see this thing about a Key bypass module. Does this do anything to get around the key thing? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/390702038427?lpid=82 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 I did see this thing about a Key bypass module. Does this do anything to get around the key thing? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/390702038427?lpid=82 I don't know anything about that, or what it does exactly. I'd be concerned about how it affects the security systems in the car... and does it make your car easier to steal? I'm not saying don't proceed. I'm just saying use caution. "Mr. OEM" - 05 JCW (TK, GPIC, SS, GPTA, R56 RSB, StBr, R56 BBK, GPWhls, SV, RS, R56 GSI, IES, StrWhl, GK, HG, LBIT) MCS, HB/HB, Packs: 1, 2, 3 & 4. LSD, Rear FL, LB/PB upholstery (inc. LB SB & HB), HB Int, Anth. HL, PDC, Nav. OEM: DPSM+Aux, SIRIUS, BT, RV Cam, Aux gauges, ILK, Alarm, AK, PFM, DL, SpLnk, CFD, CSL, BIW, R52 diag rods, EuroTL, EuroWT, EPS, EASM. AM: IanCullAUC, Intravee+KCA420i, SchrothR4, MM-STR. License Plate: SUV2BIG MotoringID: CARVE129 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErinKC Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Yeah, I was just curious. It's not something at the top of my mod list at the moment. Would much rather have the CAI and the new exhaust for MOTD and MTTS. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichSperry Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Here are my thoughts. BMW/MINI, (and every other car manufacturer), says to start the car, let the idle stabilize, and then start driving. Why? Because they want to get the car to actually warm up. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is first started and the oil is cold. Letting it idle to warm up increases emissions, and takes longer to warm the oil, leading to increased engine wear. If you really want to do something, install a block heater. But I'm just a old dumb engineer, I could be wrong... No matter where you go, there you are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 ... If you really want to do something, install a block heater. ... ... And a pre-oiler... quirk - '12 CR MCS 6m, WP, MR, HK. Conti DWS, Kosei K4R, Hardened NM TA insert, NM strut bar, Rennline skidplate, WMW heat shield, Philips X-treme, OEM Lumbars, mudflaps & black trim, free camber mod, WeatherTech mats, RearGuard... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
