Jump to content
BlackMini

DYI Control Arm and Hub Assembly

Recommended Posts

The R53 Pocket Rocket needs to have the control arm bushings (L/R), front ball joints (L/R) and front wheel assembly (L/R) replaced. Having a shop do it will cost around 2k as opposed to the $800 parts cost. The parts supplier says it is a DYI project and said it takes patience and half a day of work. I've never done this kind of work before, BUT I'm a quick learner and am willing to it all if someone is willing to guide me. Any takers? I'm new to the club.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have done them several time, LCA bushings are easy to change there are just a lot of steps. check this link http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/41-SUSPEN-Control_Arm_Bushing_and_ball_joint_Replacement/41-SUSPEN-Control_Arm_Bushing_and_ball_joint_Replacement.htm, they have a beautiful write up and plenty of extra knowledge. Take your time, it takes me almost a whole day (I am a mechanic) to change them by myself in my driveway (I pull whole subframe out, SO MUCH EASIER). i would also suggest the prepressed bushings over pressing them your self if you dont have a press. Let me know if you have any questions!:top:

2006 Mini Cooper S, Royal Grey Modded, Full Milltek exhaust, RMW tune, Alta air diverter, Alta intake, 17% pulley, Tein Springs, Schroth Pro harness D/P, Short throw shifter modded to appear stock, TSW undercarriage X brace, Cabrio chassis bars, 23mm Rear sway bar, poly racing control arm bushings, Single plate flywheel/clutch conversion, Slotted disc brakes, performance brake pads, Canton slant coolant tank, Carbon wrapped interior, Custom stereo, and other small stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pulling the cross member is the way MINI says to do it. If you decide to pull the cross member you will need a good jack that is maneuverable and a friend to line up the steering. The power steering reservoir does not have to be disconnected. remove it from the firewall clamp and it will come out the bottom with the cross member. I personally would not remove the cross member to change the control arm bushings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are doing a slew of other things in the front end that pretty much require you to drop the sub. If this is their first attempt at doing it I would highly suggest doing it correctly the first time around so you can learn what you are doing instead of just trying to wing a part in there. I have done both methods (leaving it up and pulling it) I still find dropping the whole thing easier (it was not hard at all to line things up myself and I can access almost the entire engine all the way around and can fix a bunch of common leaks) . Some subs had plenty of room to just hang it down and other just wouldn't drop enough. Again I recommend they do it by procedure first to learn the right way first, then they can decide what corners to cut.

2006 Mini Cooper S, Royal Grey Modded, Full Milltek exhaust, RMW tune, Alta air diverter, Alta intake, 17% pulley, Tein Springs, Schroth Pro harness D/P, Short throw shifter modded to appear stock, TSW undercarriage X brace, Cabrio chassis bars, 23mm Rear sway bar, poly racing control arm bushings, Single plate flywheel/clutch conversion, Slotted disc brakes, performance brake pads, Canton slant coolant tank, Carbon wrapped interior, Custom stereo, and other small stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...