Rob Mc Posted December 21 Report Posted December 21 I have had my 2008 R56 mini tuned for years. Also have a Milltek high flow cat and a jspacer on the downstream O2 (among other mods) . When it comes time for emission in MD I typically clear any codes, complete a full drive cycle (idle, targeted speeds/rpm and sleep as outlined below) then go to emissions before any new codes are thrown. This time my O2 and Evap tests are not ready - after several drive cycles and 200+ regular miles. I am about to throw money at the problem - new upstream O2, new battery (current one is 5+ years old) But thought I would hit pause and see if any of you good people have encountered this issue and have any suggestions The drive cycle requires a mix of city and highway driving under specific conditions. It may need to be repeated a few times to set all monitors, especially the EVAP system. Cold Start & Idle: Start the engine and let it idle for 2 to 3 minutes with all accessories (A/C, headlights, defroster) off. This allows the O2 sensor heaters and other initial systems to be tested. City Driving (Low Speed): Accelerate gently and drive at a steady speed of 20-30 mph for about 3 minutes and 15 seconds. Avoid heavy acceleration or braking. Highway Driving (Steady Speed): Accelerate to and maintain a steady speed between 40-60 mph for about 15 minutes. Using cruise control on a safe, open stretch of road can help maintain a consistent throttle position, which is crucial for the catalyst monitor test. Deceleration (Coasting): Without using the brakes, release the accelerator pedal and coast down to about 20 mph. Repeat this step a few times. Stop & Idle: Bring the vehicle to a complete stop and let it idle for at least 2 minutes. Do not roll through stops. Engine Off/Door Open: Turn the car off, open the driver's door, and close it. Waiting a few minutes allows the car's computer to fully power down and "finalize" the drive cycle data.
BMINIW Posted 1 hour ago Report Posted 1 hour ago Hi on my stock '03 R50, I couldn't get the P2097 code to clear despite new Bosch O2 sensors and after what I considered double the necessary drive cycle. Turns out one of the brand new Bosch sensors was bad and replacing it soon cleared the codes.
Rob Mc Posted 1 hour ago Author Report Posted 1 hour ago If I had any codes I could at least chase the problem. In my case I don't have any codes and my O2 and Evap won't show ready despite several hundred miles and a few attempts at the drive cycle noted in my original post. I have be over to the tuner who kindly put the tune back to stock no charge, purchased a new battery (6 years old - just incase power was below minimum when car was off) and now am about to replace the upstream O2 (long shot w no code showing) and fuel filter w new seal - first replacment in 18 years (long shot incase there is a slight leak on Evap but enough to throw code). ANY other ideas - Please and Thank you. Happy New Year
