Rob Mc

If I had any codes I could at least chase the problem. In my case I don't have any codes and my O2 and Evap won't show ready despite several hundred miles and a few attempts at the drive cycle noted in my original post. I have be over to the tuner who kindly put the tune back to stock no charge, purchased a new battery (6 years old - just incase power was below minimum when car was off) and now am about to replace the upstream O2 (long shot w no code showing) and fuel filter w new seal - first replacment in 18 years (long shot incase there is a slight leak on Evap but enough to throw code). ANY other ideas - Please and Thank you. Happy New Year

I have had my 2008 R56 mini tuned for years. Also have a Milltek high flow cat and a jspacer on the downstream O2 (among other mods) . When it comes time for emission in MD I typically clear any codes, complete a full drive cycle (idle, targeted speeds/rpm and sleep as outlined below) then go to emissions before any new codes are thrown. This time my O2 and Evap tests are not ready - after several drive cycles and 200+ regular miles. I am about to throw money at the problem - new upstream O2, new battery (current one is 5+ years old) But thought I would hit pause and see if any of you good people have encountered this issue and have any suggestions The drive cycle requires a mix of city and highway driving under specific conditions. It may need to be repeated a few times to set all monitors, especially the EVAP system. Cold Start & Idle: Start the engine and let it idle for 2 to 3 minutes with all accessories (A/C, headlights, defroster) off. This allows the O2 sensor heaters and other initial systems to be tested. City Driving (Low Speed): Accelerate gently and drive at a steady speed of 20-30 mph for about 3 minutes and 15 seconds. Avoid heavy acceleration or braking. Highway Driving (Steady Speed): Accelerate to and maintain a steady speed between 40-60 mph for about 15 minutes. Using cruise control on a safe, open stretch of road can help maintain a consistent throttle position, which is crucial for the catalyst monitor test. Deceleration (Coasting): Without using the brakes, release the accelerator pedal and coast down to about 20 mph. Repeat this step a few times. Stop & Idle: Bring the vehicle to a complete stop and let it idle for at least 2 minutes. Do not roll through stops. Engine Off/Door Open: Turn the car off, open the driver's door, and close it. Waiting a few minutes allows the car's computer to fully power down and "finalize" the drive cycle data.

I do as well I drive all the way from Glenn Dale Md to get service there because Freddy and Galen are the best!

UPDATE - Vibra Techs and the OHLINs coil overs (vs BC Racing that were on there) did the trick. Thanks to Freddy at GT Peace I am back to loving the drive... Rob

Ordered Vibra-Technics Lower Engine Mount G2 for the lower but your suggestion might help for upper Powerflex site is down but I think I can find them. Thanks

Need help finding upper right and lower center mounts for engine and trans mount. Currently use polyurethane mounts from Torque Solutions. OEM were too soft and the engine felt like it was having a heart attack with my stage 2+ tune (inc ecu flash, water meth, downpipe delete, borla exhaust, brisk plugs, wagner intercooler) The polyurethane are too hard - engine is fine but all the vibration goes into the cabin and it is a squeek and rattle fest. Freddy at GT Peace is my go to shop. They found Vibra-Technics Lower Engine Mount G2 for the lower but nothing so far for the upper right. Key take away - trying to reduce interior vibration. Suggestions please. best, Rob

I have 150k miles on the car with a complete new engine at 75k when the orginal owner lost his timing chain/tensioner. I only put about 4,000 miles a year and use full synthetic. No significat blow by. typically only down to 3/4 to 1/2 of fill line at time of oil change. Race shop was highly recommend on this forum and they love cars, I see a lot of minis in for service - that said I am inclined to drain a bit out. Agree? And thank you for the help! Rob

Sorry I should have said it better. They said it was what they recommended for my car. Just an assumption on my part. I have water meth and tune by Fred at Tech Tune Crofton. Complete mods are: Manual Trans - Ringer Racing Clutch Stage 3 and Flywheel Milltek Performance downpipe High Flow Cat - vibrant j spacer with their smallest size jetting Wagner intercooler Borla Sport Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake ecu tune SPS Tech Tune Crofton - ( Stock, 18, 20 and 21.4 psi) ( stages set by plug in controller stored in glove box) Brisk Spark plugs gapped at .025 Snow Performance Water Meth injection (controller on dash to left of wheel – washer fluid tank converted to Boost Juice reservoir) BC Racing coil overs Torques solutions engine mount. Zimmerman drilled rotors (front)

Race shop filled oil about 1/4 inch over max and advised that .25 quart over max is way to go with mods I have. Never heard anything good about going past max fill line. Thoughts please.

Quick follow up. Mini just got back from GT Peace. Quality shop! Shawn was very knowledgeable and helpful. Thanks for the good advice Rob

Good to hear. Will reach out. See you on the road Rob

Much appreciated.

Guys: I have a 2008 R56. Looking for good shop near Bowie to keep her running fine. Current need is to have Upper Engine Mount replaced. Secondary is help w overall cabin vibration. Before you say it I know that the lower torque solutions mount and some of the other mods made it a lot worse. But the dash and ceiling liners rattles really take away from an otherwise excellent ride. She is a true sleeper and otherwise well dialed in. Can't go to a dealer or an otherwise great shop - Bimmer Auto in Clinton - as the ECU tune takes it out of their comfort zone. So - even if the OEM Upper and any thing else like Tesa tape on the female brackets doesn't do the trick I still need a good shop. This is my first Post so if I broke any forum rules - please be kind. Appreciate any recommendations. R56 (2008 Mini S Hardtop) MODS to-date include: Manual Trans - Ringer Racing Clutch Stage 3 and Flywheel Milltek Performance downpipe High Flow Cat - vibrant j spacer with their smallest size jetting Wagner intercooler Borla Sport Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake ecu tune SPS Performance - ( Stock, 18, 20 and 21.4 psi) ( stages set by plug in controller stored in glove box) Brisk Spark plugs gapped at .025 ( May change to .022-.024) Snow Performance Water Meth injection (controller on dash to left of wheel – washer fluid tank converted to Boost Juice reservoir) BC Racing coil overs Torques solutions lower engine mount. Zimmerman drilled rotors (front)