MINI_Voyager
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Posts posted by MINI_Voyager
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Looks like I can make it. I don't suppose there's an extra t-shirt (men medium) available? If not, no sweat.
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I'm sure there are a bunch of members who will be happy to give a personal demonstration one evening. You're welcome to inspect mine, too... although my MINI is a 1st Gen so you would be better served by checking out a 2nd Gen MINI with Xenons.
Yep--actually I decided to switch to Xenons, based on what you've told me. But I was too late though... :banghead: The car's already in production. :rock:
Next time I'll be sure to get Xenons--although hopefully that won't happen for a long time.
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...I've never had a problem with that, personally. The beams in the Xenon headlights are actually not symmetrical - they deliberately have the passenger side beam taller (and off to the right more) than the driver's side beam, I believe specifically to assist the viewing of road signs and other roadside objects. The driver's side beam is cut much lower down, so that the driver in front of you doesn't get blasted in the rear view mirror (except over hilly roads, but that can't really be helped). They really are designed quite well IMO.
OK, that's interesting and good to know--I'll have to think fast on whether to change the order....hmmmm....
Thanks!
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I respectfully disagree - I think the Xenon headlights are fantastic at night - the best headlights I've ever driven with. Yes, they are very bright, but the reason that is allowed is precisely because of the sharp cutoff that they allow. The regular Halogen lights have a wider/more diffuse light beam, which is why they can't be as bright (more of the light travels into the eyes of other drivers, both oncoming and in front of you (via mirror). Most of the really "annoying" bright headlights I see on other cars are either misaligned or just because someone slapped "blue bulbs" into regular headlights because they thought it looked cool. In either case, they generally wouldn't pass the Virginia annual inspection that way. Just a different opinion on the Xenons.
And I cheerfully and respectfully disagree with you, my friend. I do admit that they're very bright and very useful and I've thought of getting it in my new car. However the sharp cut-off is what concerns me, as I wouldn't be able to see what's just off the side of the road. Let me give you a bit of background. I'm an amateur astronomer so I often drive down backcountry roads with no street lights, and where I drive, deers abound and can bound into the road without looking both way (apparently their parents don't teach them that...:rofl: ) So that plus not wanting to PO my fellow astronomers when I come or leave is why I stick with the normal headlights.
Unless of course I'm possibly wrong in that the headlights don't give enough "side" light to see what might be just off the road?? I'm willing to reconsider if I can be sure that I'd be able to see just off the road (besides the cone of headlights).
I second this... and I should have mentioned it in my previous post. The Harman Kardon stereo option in 2nd Gen MINIs is really, really good - light years beyond the base and "Hi-Fi" stereo options. It's a totally different (superior) animal than the Harman Kardon option from 1st Gen MINIs, because it was redesigned/remodeled after the rare "Digital POWER SoundModul" option for 1st Gens, which itself was designed by a German custom audio house especially for MINI.If you love music, make darn sure to check the box for the H/K stereo.
I concur with H/K Stereo. :top:
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Picking options is fun! :top:
I'd point out that 17" tires means less rubber and will lead to a more harsh ride than 16" tires would. I love the 17" wheels, but didn't want any harsher ride than I already have. Ditto for sport suspension. My ride in 2007 is harsh enough even with 16" and non-sport suspension. However if you've already test driven with 17" and 16" with and without sport suspension and you like it anyway, more power to you! :rock:
Seat heaters are a must! :rock:
I wouldn't get Xenox headlights though--like others said, they are BRIGHT. So bright that you might not be able to see what's just outside the headlight's cone, because the contrast is so sharp. Also you'd have to remember not to flash hi-beam except when necessary, as it can burn out Xenox lightbulb more quickly, I believe. Also even though the headlights are supposed to be self-leveled, I find them too bright when I have to drive oppose them (yes, I do turn away from looking at the light, but still....) Just my opinion.
Have fun!! :top:
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The very first mod I did when I ordered my Dora was the Light-in-Sight, because I knew there was no way I can see the traffic light without cradling my neck (and probably breaking it in the process :rofl:) I haven't really made any other mods though....but with the next car (another MCS), in addition to Light-in-sight (probably transferred from Dora), I'll probably get the car tinted, as soon as I can confirm that the tine won't exceed the maximum 70% that is allowed in all 50 states, a sway bar, a couple of extra gauges (1 for oil temp, one for something else, maybe oil pressure???), a new ScanGuage II, as well as customized stripes, maybe even a customized roof graphics.
I'm not into racing or auto-crossing (although might try one sometimes), so don't need suspension or other similar mods. I had thought of putting in catch can, but have read that 2011 and onward has their engine changed to prevent carbon build-up though. Anyone know about that one?
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I think I saw TGGRR this morning, at about 8:10-15, when we were going from N. Beauregard St to Little River Turnpike before getting on 395 South, where I lost him (I think he went on 95-S while I went up and over to 495 toward the river. At least what I saw was an orange convertible with non-personalized license plate (I wasn't sure if TGGRR has personalized license plate?)???
If that was you, TGGRR, cool! :rock: I flashed a couple of times, but not surprised if you didn't see me.
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I think everyone was smiling much more after the Seafoam party and then when we made the stop at Tropical smoothie afterward, there was improvement EVERYWHERE!
And where did you go to do your Seafoaming? Just for future reference--and if you don't want to say where out here, please PM me.
Thanks!
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Shoot--I didn't see this thread until now... :banghead: :banghead: Would have been interested in trying it out. But don't you need to change the oil before (or after?) the Seafoam treatment?
Also is this something that would be useful with a new MINI (no, I haven't placed the order.....yet
)? Or best for older MINIs? -
I like being able to leave 5 mins from my place before it starts! :rofl:
I like not having to leave an hour before it starts!! -
Can't one bypass I-95 and take US 301--it intersect I-95 at roughly where one might get off I-95 anyway for the vineyard? Or take US 29 out southwest to Culpeper then US 522?
Or do they just make too much sense?
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If you give Mike at AC a call, you should be able to catch him via phone. I've always had better luck that way.
Thanks for the suggestion, although I'm in no hurry. I had contacted him about some ideas for my next MINI (not sure when yet though). I'll ping him again if I need his answers soon.
Thanks again!
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Ewww ... that's not good; haven't been on NAM in quite awhile, so I have no idea what's happenin' ... would be good if some1 here knew ... :questionmark:
Not to worry (too much anyway), but the owner is still on Facebook and I emailed him a couple of days ago and got an automated response. So they seem to be still in business though. :rock:
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I have some boot strips I ordered and I need help to find someone to put them on the back of my Mini... I have no idea where to go...I got them from aesthic creations... Can anyone give me advice?
There's a place out near Dulles that I used for my stripes (from Aesthetic Creations too)--they did a great job, and I think they also do stripes for MoS. Unfortunately I don't remember their name though, but I think they were just south of the Dulles airport, not far from Route 28. Anyone remember the place I'm talking about?
P.S. Aside--I noticed Aesthetic Creations is no longer in the Vendor Directory at NAM, and in fact the # of vendors seem smaller than before. Anyone know what's going on? Poor economy?
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Hi, I think that's what it is now....I checked the battery's voltage this morning, and it was 11.8, normal for nonactive battery. Also the engine did start immediately, but then ran very low RPM while trying to get itself going--as if it wasn't getting enough fuel.
I do remember vaguely getting a letter from MINI about some part being extended a longer warranty--will have to dig it out of the paper pile. :embarassed:
Thanks everyone! :rock:
An update--I just dropped by PMoA on my way home and it turned out to be the fuel pump. They've replaced it and are holding onto Dora so they can check tomorrow morning to make sure the issue has been resolved. :rock: They did say it'd be covered by warranty though. :top:
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It sounds like what happened to Cricket at the Dragon. It was the high pressure fuel pump. The good news is that MINI extended the warranty on that part to 10 years or 110,000 miles. Passport replaced it for me at no charge.
Hi, I think that's what it is now....I checked the battery's voltage this morning, and it was 11.8, normal for nonactive battery. Also the engine did start immediately, but then ran very low RPM while trying to get itself going--as if it wasn't getting enough fuel.
I do remember vaguely getting a letter from MINI about some part being extended a longer warranty--will have to dig it out of the paper pile. :embarassed:
Thanks everyone! :rock:
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Over the last month or so, with increasing frequency, it has been harder for me to get my 2007 MCSm started in the morning. The first 1 or 2 times I tried to start, it would sounds/feel like it's not getting enough gas or just real slow to get going and then dies--sometimes I have to pump the gas to make sure it get enough gas. I've checked ScanGaugeII for any error code (none). I'm not sure if it's the battery, because I do get the lights, etc, when I push in the fob. Also I don't think it take "longer" to start, just that the engeine don't crank enough or enough, but not just going from not enough to enough, if that makes sense? I need to remember to check the voltage via ScanGauge before starting though--anyone remember the normal voltage of battery at rest before startup?
Fuel pump is among my suspicions--anyone know how much it might cost? The odd thing is once it get started, it's usually fine the rest of the day and I rarely have the same problem when I go home from work.
Guess I'll have to stop by AutoZone or something similar and have them check the battery first. Any thoughts or experience? My dealer is PMoA, only half-mile away from where I live
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Yep, that was him! :rock:
Hi! :itsme: I'm sorry I didn't see you or your postings earlier--do you remember exactly when and where--from the timing, I'm guessing you caught me on my commute to work on 395 to 95? Hmm, come to think, I do remember a MINI behind me for quite a while on 95 last week, and I think I waved a couple of times but I don't think I got a response...(maybe one little wave?). Was that you?
And if I didn't respond to your honking, that's because I'm deaf, so I wouldn't have heard that. :rofl:
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As much driving as I do in/around DC, I am surprised I haven't seen any of you all:frown:
Same here...although to be honest, I've been doing a lot of telework over the last few months.:pcguru:
I'm hoping to get out for the Spring Fling tomorrow morning... :rock: :motor:
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What you just described is pretty much how I use the clutch. Especially if I'm the first car at a light, then I want to take advantage of the spot of open road when the light turns green.
That's what I pretty much do. If I'm first at a light, I try to time my shifting into gear just before the light turn green (usually by judging from cross-street lights turning yellow to red, or judging the on-coming left turning traffic. Sometimes I wish we would adopt the European's changing light pattern in which the yellow would come on (while red is still on) and then change to only green. That way the yellow light would signal us to prepare to move (usually changing into gear in Europe where most cars are sticks). But I know most folks here would just start accelerating the very moment the light turn green, without checking for red-light running traffic... Oh well.
In stop-and-go traffic, I've usually just kept the car in gear, with clutch down, ready to move along. I'm just wondering if there isn't' a better way, but I can't really think of any other way.
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I experience where you stop for a second or two, then move a bit, then stop again for just a second. You can't leave the clutch fully engaged for that or you'll go too slow and stall. Soooo, I throw it into neutral and stop, then I engage the clutch to move, but I can't even get it fully out before it's time to stop.
That's exactly what Ali and I are asking about those "stop-and-go" traffic--I really hate to have to keep the clutch in so much, especially after this clutch replacement. I had to do a lot of that in my last car, which last over 110K miles without needing a replacement. Now that I know MINI clutches don't last as long, I'm even more leery of those kind of traffic.
So it sounds like it's "ok" to hold down the clutch pedal while in neutral? Won't that wear out the clutch faster? Or does it only really matter if the gear is in (1st gear or whatever)?
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The thing i remember most when my clutch was replaced was that the new clutch felt like butter. My bad clutch was so hard to push in that if I was trying to hold it all the way in, my leg would start to quiver. The new clutch was much softer. I believe the clutch was going when I bought Tigger as it was replaced within the first 6 months that I had him. I remember I used to stall him out a lot and thought that I was just out of practice since my last car was an automatic, but I never stall it now.
Interesting. At first after I picked up the car yesterday, i was stalling because I was letting up the clutch too quickly (compared to before anyway). So I have to work on not letting up as quickly. I just wonder if it was really normal and I just missed it all that time?
I'm always curious about how to properly drive a clutch. I get concerned when I'm in bad stop and go traffic on my commute. There are times that traffic comes to a complete stop, so I throw it in neutral, then it starts out so slowly that I can't get the clutch fully out before I'm throwing it back into neutral again. It's concerning and I don't know how to deal with it.
Ali
Yeah, that's a toughie. I've been in some of them, although I try to avoid by commuting outside of usual rush hour. What do you all do in this kind of traffic with stick?
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OK, so I got Dora back from the dealership today. When I went to pick her up, I ask to have a SA go with me on a test drive to make sure there wasn't anything else wrong with the clutch, etc. Unfortunately the repair wasn't covered by warranty, although the SA managed to save me roughly $260 from the original $3000 figure. It turned out the clutch was just worn out and that the pressure plate was cracked and they had to replace the clutch and the flywheel.
First thing I found was a very "sensitive" clutch, in that I only have to let out the clutch much less before the engine start going (meaning it got engaged very quickly). That was a surprise as I didn't recall having that much sensitivity when I brought the car ~3 years ago, but maybe I've forgotten. So it'll take a bit of adjustment not to let out so much. Has anyone had this experience when changing clutch?
Also the SA suggested that when I down-shift, to wait until I've let out the clutch completely before feeding gas, which didn't make a whole lot of sense, as I was trying to match revolutions while downshifting.... Does this advice make sense to anyone?
He also said that the engine has little torque at the low end and that I need to feed more gas when starting from low RPMs, so the clutch wouldn't get too worn out. That make some sense, but I'm not completely sure about it. Any thoughts?
Let's hope this clutch last just as long as the original clutch did (~40K miles)!
Any thoughts on best practice on how to work with the MINI's clutch, especially if it might differ from other car's clutch?
At least now I can go :motor: !
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Very interesting reading! Unfortunately I just changed oil a few weeks ago, so will have to wait until next time I need to change oil. Although I guess I can always put some of the Seafoam in the gas?
Would love to see the cloud from Dora sometimes though. :rock:
Lola's Check Engine Lights
in Maintenance & Modifications
Posted
Thanks for the detailed explanation! :top: I had heard that 2012 R56 has a redesigned intake manifold that minimize the carbon-buildup and thus an oil catch can is not as necessary as before. What do you think? I was considering getting an oil catch can for a new 2012, but now I wonder if it's still necessary?